Fashion Design Drawing

called a "French lining" or on a lining with one or two darts or with a straight or curved

edge.

FOR A ROUND-SHOULDERED FIGURE The lining must again be made up of cheap material so that it can be fitted to the figure and the corrections transferred to the paper pattern.

When your lining is made, have some one pin a strip of the lining material, about four inches wide, smoothly across your back from one arm to the other. Then put your lining on and you'll find that it looks like Figure 11. Wrinkles will run up from under the arm to the side-back seam (Fig. 191), and the lining will stand out across the back at the bottom. (Fig. 191.)

The lining draws in this way because the shoulders pull the lining upward. (Fig. 191.) Have some one cut the lining across the shoulders between the side-back seams (Fig. 192) and from the seams down to within three-eighths of an inch of the underarm seam. (Fig. 192.) The lining will spread apart, separating as much as your figure requires. (Fig. 192.) Have some one pin the cut edges of the lining to the piece beneath it, take off the lining, baste it, and try it on again. Now rip and cut it apart so that you can use the altered pieces to fix the tissue pattern. Slash the pattern just where the lining is slashed, separate the pieces a similar amount, and paste tissue-paper underneath the slash.

If you are not very round-shouldered it will not be necessary to slash the lining as much or separate the pieces as much as shown in Figure 192. It is only for very round-shoulders that

Fashion Design Drawing - Use Of Butterick Patterns 13.jpg

such an extensive alteration is necessary. If a person stoops very much, a second cut should be made nearly all the way across the back and side back, commencing at a point about one-third the distance from the neck edge to the broken line, and terminating near the armhole edge just below the outlet perforations, separating the edges made by the slash more or less as the figure requires generally from an eighth to a half inch. In cutting out the side back, preserve an even curve all along the edge. The underarm gore very seldom needs any change for this type of badly proportioned figure.

FOR AN OVER-ERECT FIGURE On a

figure overerect in carriage, the lining will wrinkle across the shoulders. (Fig. 193.) The lining must be made up carefully and put on the figure. It is also slashed across the shoulders from side seam to side seam and downward to within three-eighths of an inch of the underarm seam. (Fig. 194.) The edges of the slash are lapped and pinned. (Fig. 194.) Don't lap them too much or you'll be drawn back more than ever. Baste the slash, try the lining on and then rip it apart. Where it has been lapped there will be slight unevenness at the seam edges that must be trimmed off. Using the lining as a guide, alter the pattern, slashing it, lapping the edges and pasting them securely.

ADAPTING PATTERNS TO SQUARE OR SLOPING SHOULDERS We have shown how a waist will act and how it should be altered under such conditions. ' An instance of square shoulders causing crosswise wrinkles at the front is shown in Figure 195. For a case of this kind it is not necessary to make up a lining first in order to alter the paper pattern. The alteration is very slight and can be made on the actual lining.

Cut your lining by the pattern, following the pattern instructions carefully, and baste it together in the usual way. Try it on, pinning the fronts evenly together. You will find that it draws across the chest. (Fig. 195.) It should be taken up at the shoulder seam, taking up as much as necessary near the neck to remove the wrinkles, and gradually sloping off the alteration toward the shoulder. (Fig. 196.) This alteration will make the lining too high around the neck, for the lining has been lifted to the level of the highest part of the shoulder. So the neck edge must be slashed at intervals until it feels comfortable. (Fig. 196.) After you take off the lining, rebaste the shoulder seam and trim off the neck on a line with the slashes. Try the lining on again to be sure the alteration is right, before stitching the shoulder seams.

If there are crosswise wrinkles across the back, the lining can be altered in the same way at the back.