If it is necessary to shorten the lower-arm portion, make a plait half as wide as the amount to be taken out, laying it across the lower part of the sleeve pattern, about three inches below the elbow and parallel with the wrist edge of the sleeve. The plaits across the under-sleeve piece should be made to correspond in size and position with those on the upper piece. The upper-sleeve portion with the plaits pinned in is shown in Figure 199.

Fashion Design Drawing - Use Of Butterick Patterns 19.jpg

When the plaits are folded over, the perforations and the edges of the pattern become uneven. To correct them, lay the altered pattern on a large piece of paper and mark a new outline, running across the edge of the folded part. If the arm is very full, the space between the elbow and the greater width at the top of the sleeve should be filled out, making the edge an even line. But if the arm is not large, the surplus width may be trimmed off to make an even outline from the elbow to the top of the sleeve. Whatever alteration is made at the edges of the seam must be repeated in regard to the large perforations.

If the sleeve needs lengthening, make the alteration at the same places by cutting across the pattern,

instead of making the plaits. Lay the pattern upon another piece of paper and separate the pieces far enough to make it the required length. Correct the outlines in the same way as when the sleeve is shortened. (Fig. 200.) Alter the outside sleeve to correspond to the lining.

ALTERING A YOKE. PATTERN If, in buying a pattern with a circular yoke, you had to take a pattern that was too large or too small for you at the waist, the yoke pattern can be altered very easily. (Figs. 200A and 200B on preceding page.)

If the pattern is too small for you, slash the yoke pattern from its upper edge to about the hip line. Make three slashes. (Fig. 200 A.) In pinning the yoke pattern on the material, spread the upper edge until it is the right size for your waist. (Fig. 200 A.)

If the pattern is too large for you at the waist, make three dart-shaped plaits in the yoke pattern, letting the plaits begin at the upper edge and taper to nothing about the hip line. (Fig. 200 B.) The dept of the plaits depends on the amount of the alteration required.

FOR ALTERING A GORED SKIRT PATTERN, it is of greatest importance that one should know the hip measure as well as the waist measure of both the pattern and the figure to be fitted. In taking the waist measure the tape should be drawn quite snugly. The hip measure should be taken seven inches below the waistline, holding the tape easily around the figure. The1 table of measurements on the envelope should be referred to in order to ascertain if the figure's measures correspond to those of the pattern.

Order the pattern according to the directions given on the pattern envelope. In some styles a skirt pattern should be ordered by the waist measure, in othersFashion Design Drawing - Use Of Butterick Patterns 20.jpg

by the hip; but in each case the pattern instructions will specify whether it should be bought by the waist or hip.

If a gored skirt is of the correct hip measure, but is too large at the waist, the alteration is quite simple. It can be made in fitting the skirt after the gores are basted together, by making each seam a little deeper from the hip toward the waist.

If the waist is the correct size and the hip is too large in a gored skirt, make each seam a little deeper from the waist toward the hip, continuing to take in each seam from the hip to the lower edge of the skirt the same amount taken in at the hip. As a rule this is the best plan, because it is easier to take in material than to add it, and one is sure not to have a pattern that is too small.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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