Fashion Design Drawing

Cutting In laying a pattern on material for cutting, arrange the pieces so that they will cut to the best advantage without wasting your material. Follow the pattern instructions in regard to the position of the cutting perforations. (Figs. 187C and 187D.) Pin the pattern in place with fine small pins placed as close together as necessary to hold the pattern firmly. Do not push the pins through the material recklessly, but take up as few threads as possible so as not to mark the material.

Cut out the garment with bent shears (Fig. 174, page 60), following the pattern edges exactly, and cutting a clean, even line. Mark the working perforations with tailor's tacks (Fig. 71, page 22), using different colored cottons to indicate the different size perforations.

Putting Seams Together The seam edges are marked with notches (Fig. 187H), showing which edges come together. Outlet seams are marked by large single perforations (Fig. 187F) and the basting on these seams should be through these perforations. Ordinary seams are not marked by perforations, but are sewed evenly three-eighths of an inch from the seam edge.

Darts are marked by V-shaped lines of perforations. A dart is made by folding the garment so that the two lines of dart perforations come together.

Fig. 187 I represents the easy curve commonly followed in terminating darts in waist patterns. The picture shows the effect when the material is folded with the corresponding dart perforations matching, according to the pattern instructions. The point to be emphasized here is that the line of the dart seam should follow the reversed curve, toward the point running into the folded edge, almost in a line with the fold. When this curve is followed, the "pouting" effect (as it is called by professionals), often seen at the top of darts, is avoided.

Fig. 187 J shows the line of the dart seam running straight from the third perforation from the point of the dart to this point. This is the cause of the "pouting" effect, which, as explained in the preceding description, is easily avoided. It is an ugly and unnecessary fault.

Although the darts in skirts are reversed, this caution should be observed, as the points should be finished perfectly, to avoid this same pouting effect already referred to.

THE BEST METHOD OF ALTERING PATTERNS

Butterick patterns are so carefully planned that it is unnecessary for most women to change them in order to secure an absolutely satisfactory fit. At the same time, for figures varying from the average in waist lengths, sleeve lengths, skirt lengths, bust size, waist size, hip size, etc., the patterns can be easily changed to suit individual peculiarities of form by following these instructions.

It is easy to lengthen or shorten a waist, sleeve or skirt without in any way detracting from the original lines, if the work is done at the right time and in the proper way. A woman sometimes spends a long time endeavoring to fit a waist cut the normal length to a long-waisted figure, and the result is unsatisfactory because the lines of the seams and the proportions of the waist are not what they were designed to be, a very slight change sometimes destroying the effect of the whole garment. Fitting an average-length waist pattern to a short-waisted figure is another difficult thing for an amateur to do. By carefully studying these illustrations, methods and principles, one can alter patterns satisfactorily for all types of figures.

A knowledge of the proportionate measurements used in making patterns is very necessary for the dressmaker,

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whether professional or amateur. A comparison between these measures and those of the person to be fitted should be made before cutting into one's material.