Fashion Design Drawing

a straight line from the fullest part of the abdomen to the floor. To do this, it is best to outline the edge of the pattern with chalk or thread, and leave sufficient material to raise the waistline as much as may be necessary. (Fig. 209.) In extreme cases it may be necessary to put a dart at the center front, but usually a slight easing of the skirt into the belt across the front will be sufficient.

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FOR A FIGURE WITH PROMINENT HIPS, it is necessary to increase the amount eased in the belt, or increase the size of darts over the fullest part of the hip. Mark the hipline on the pattern seven and three-eighths inches below the waistline. At the hip-line on the back edge of the pattern take up a dart-shaped plait about one-half inch deep and tapering away to nothing at a point just over the fullest part of the hip. Slash the pattern from the upper edge, through the darts, to the hipline, to make it lie flat. (Fig. 210.) The darts should be kept the original length.

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ALTERING LENGTH OF BOYS' PATTERNS

When a boy of five or six years has the breast and waist measure of a nine-year-old size, even though he has the height of a six-year-old, it is better to get a nine-year-old pattern and shorten the coat, the sleeves and trousers.

The Coat and Sleeves Are Shortened in practically the same way as already shown in the woman's waist.

To Shorten the Trousers considerable care is needed in determining just where the alteration should be made. The length of the underwaist to which they fasten has a great deal to do with their length when worn. It is well to measure an old pair of trousers on the child, taking the measure from the waist to the crotch and then to just below the knee, allowing for the extra fulness to fall over the knee in knickerbockers. Any alteration in length above the crotch should be made across the pattern below the extension for the pocket opening, changing the seam edges as little as possible. In the lower leg part, fold the plait across above the extension piece at the lower part of the leg. (Fig. 211.)