Fashion Design Drawing

FOR ADAPTING PATTERNS TO LONG OR SHORT WAISTED FIGURES, the first step should be to read the pattern instructions carefully. Then open the pattern, and, referring to the instructions, identify each piece by its number and description. Before cutting the material, the figure should be measured from the collar seam at the back of the neck to the waistline and from close up under the arm to the waistline.

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Make a note of all the measures as they are taken, then compare them with the corresponding measurements of the pattern. In most cases it is sufficient to alter the length of a waist lining at the lower part. Some figures, however, are long-waisted from under the arm to the waistline, and short from under the arm to the neck. This is determined by the length of the underarm measure. If the lower part is too long, lay a plait across each piece two and one-half inches above the waistline. (Fig. 187.) The size of the plait depends on the difference between the measure from under the arm to the waistline of the pattern and the corresponding measure of the figure. If the upper part is too long, lay a plait across the front and back, half way between the underarm and the neck. (Fig. 187.)

The lining may be lengthened by cutting it across at either or both of these points and separating the pieces the required space to give them the desired length. (Fig. 188.) The seams edges should be evened off at the plaits after the plaits are laid. Whatever alteration is made in the length of the lining, corresponding alterations must be made in the pattern of the outside of the waist, taking out or putting in the same amount at the same places.

ADAPTING PATTERNS TO FIGURES WITH EXTRA LARGE OR SMALL BUST

A pattern may be of the correct bust measure and yet require a slight alteration across the bust. This alteration can usually be made at the underarm seam, where an extra allowance, or outlet, is provided for just such cases.

When there are two underarm gores in a pattern, the alterations should be made so that it is equally divided at the two underarm or outlet seams.

Occasionally, however, one finds a figure with what is termed an "extra large" or "extra small" bust, which means that while the bust measure in both cases may be the same as for a figure of average shape, a greater proportion of the measurement is over the front and less at the back in the first case, and less in the front and more at the back in the other.

For an Unusually Large Bust get some stout, inexpensive lining material, as much as the lining pattern calls for. Unbleached muslin will do nicely. Lay your pattern on the material, following the pattern instructions for cutting. Cut it out carefully and mark the working perforations with tailor's tacks. Put the lining together and turn under the hems, following the pattern instructions.

Take a piece of the lining material six inches wide and long enough to reach across the front of your

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