When you get your pattern home, open it, and identify each piece from the illustration on the back of the envelope. Read the instructions carefully, and go over the illustrated instructions. You will see that they are very simple, and with the illustrations are extremely easy to follow. Butterick patterns have these illustrated instructions.

The pattern is marked with a few clear, unmistakable symbols that show you exactly how to cut and put the dress together.

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Large double perforations invariably mark the cutting line. (Fig. 187C.) They are always used in a series that form a straight line. (Fig. 187C.) When you have your material laid out, ready for cutting, these large double perforations are always laid lengthwise of the material. (Fig. 187C.) Every piece of material has two dimensions: Crosswise which is from selvage to selvage; and lengthwise which is the length of the selvage. The large double perforations are laid on the material parallel to the selvage, so that each one of these large double perforations is the same distance from the selvage as all the other large double perforations.

It is extremely important to get these large double perforations straight, and not bias, on the material. If they are laid on straight, the garment will be easy to make, and will wear nicely. If you put these perforations on carelessly, so that instead of being parallel to the selvage they run bias, the garment will pull and twist and stretch. It will be found an aid in cutting correctly if a ruler or yardstick is laid on each piece of the pattern, its edge touching each of the perforations that indicate the way the pattern should lie on the goods, and a heavy pencil mark made along the line formed by the ruler. This question of the grain or thread of the goods is a very important one. Some skirts are cut with one straight and one bias edge on each gore; others have two bias edges, for it all depends on the design of the skirt. The only safe plan to follow is the line of perforations marking the grain of the pattern. Measure from each end of the line to the selvage of the goods, and move the pattern until both ends of the line are the same number of inches from the edge.

Large triple perforations are also always used in cutting. (Fig. 187D.) They are always laid on a lengthwise fold of the material. In some cases they can also be laid on a crosswise fold. The pattern instructions tell you whether you are to lay the large triple perforations on a lengthwise or crosswise fold.

Small double perforations are always used to mark the normal waistline in skirts, blouses, coats, etc. (Fig. 187E.)

Large single perforations (Fig. 187F) and small single perforations (Fig. 187G), either alone or together, are used for different purposes, which are explained in the instructions.

Notches (Fig. 187H) are used to mark seam edges and to show which edges come together. Edges marked with corresponding notches are put together in a seam, with the notches matching.

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USING A PATTERN FOR CUTTING is explained fully on the pattern envelope. In most cases, when the two sides of a garment are exactly alike, the pattern is given for one-half the garment. Each piece of the pattern is cut twice or double to make the complete garment. In cases where the two halves of a garment are not alike, for example, when a skirt is draped on the left side and not on the right, the pattern is given for the entire garment. In every case the pattern explains which pieces should be cut twice or double, and which should be cut once and singly. A front-gore pattern is usually laid on the folded material with its front edge on the fold, thus cutting it double. Two side gores can be cut either singly, making two cuttings, or once with the material doubled so that the two are cut at once. In a skirt with an irregular front closing, each half of the front is cut separately. Before cutting your material, be sure that the pattern is the right length and proportion for you. If you are shorter or taller than the average figure, the length of the pattern can be altered as directed on the pattern envelope.

If your figure is out of proportion in any way, large or small in the bust, etc., the pattern should be altered according to the directions

given in this chapter, which covers the alterations for different types of figures.

Fashion Drawing Sections

Part-1 Part-2 Part-3 Part-4 Part-5 Part-6 Part-7 Part-8 Part-9 Part-10 Part-11 Part-12 Part-13 Part-14