Do not use the point of the needle, as it scratches and weakens the material. Continue entirely across the gathers, putting the needle under each stitch and holding the plait firmly with the thumb. Stroke the material above the gathering thread as well as below it to make Fashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 17.jpg

the gathers firm and even. Two Rows of Gathers are often used in dressmaking and do not need stroking. A skirt joined to a

band, a sleeve set in a cuff or sewed into the armhole,

should be gathered twice so that the gathers will stay

in the proper place.

The second row is made with the stitches directly

in line with those of the first row and one-quarter or

three-eighths of an inch below them. (Fig. 27.) If

there is much fulness to be gathered, the spaces between the stitches may be lengthened.

EMBROIDERY EDGING USED AS A FACING is

shown in Fig. 28. The plain material above the embroidery is applied as the facing. Crease the edging off at the depth it is to extend beyond the garment. Baste the material along the crease so that the seamFashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 18.jpg

will come toward the inside of the garment. Then stitch the seam. Now turn the edging down, fold in the raw edge at the top, and hem down as a facing. The facing should be no wider than necessary to make a neat joining.

TO JOIN EMBROIDERY IN A TUCK, make several tucks in the plain material above the embroidery if it is wide enough. Then measure carefully the amount for the space between the tucks, the under part of the tucks, and the seam. Cut away the

Fashion Drawing Sections

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