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A HEM is a fold made by twice turning over the edge of the material. (Fig. 16.) Make a narrow, even turning, and mark the depth for the second turning on the material with a coarse pin, chalk or basting, using as a marker a card notched the desired depth of the hem. Fold on the line, and if the hem is wide, baste at top and bottom.

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Hold the edges you are going to sew on, toward you; place the hem over the forefinger and under the middle finger and hold it down with the thumb. Begin at the right end and insert the needle through the fold, leaving a short end of the thread to be caught under the hemming stitches.

Pointing the needle toward the left shoulder, make a slanting stitch by taking up a few threads of the material and the fold of the hem. Fasten the thread by taking two or three stitches on top of each other.

If a new thread is needed, start as in the beginning, tucking both the end of the new and old thread under the fold of the hem and secure them with the hemming stitches. Train the eye to keep the stitches even and true.

A Napery or Damask Hem is used on napkins and tablecloths. Turn under the edge of the material twice Fashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 10.jpg

for a narrow hem. Fold the hem back on the right

side, crease the material along the first fold, and overhand the fold and crease together. The needle is inserted straight as shown in Fig. 17. Open and flatten stitches with the thumb nail. If a square is used, turn the opposite side in the same manner. Hem the sides before folding back on the right side. No basting is needed for this hem. TakeFashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 11.jpg

small stitches so that the work will look well when the hem is turned down. Directions for hemstitching will be found on page 12.

SQUARE CORNERS are made by turning under the edges as for hems. Turn the overlapping hem back toward the right side and crease the material along the first fold. Open the hems and cut away the underlapping hem to within a seam of the second turning. (Fig. 18.) Hem the overlapping edges to the hem underneath, but not through to the right side. (Fig. 19.) Overhand the ends of the hems. Finish all the corners in the same manner.

MITERED CORNERS are made by joining two bias edges to form an angle. Turn the edges as for hems, and crease. Open the material, fold the corner toward the center, and crease where the lines cross. Cut the corner off, allowing a narrow turning. (Fig. 20.) Fold the hems down all around, bring the mitered corners together, and hem the side. (Fig. 21.) Hem the corners, but do not catch the stitches through the material underneath.

Fashion Drawing Sections

Part-1 Part-2 Part-3 Part-4 Part-5 Part-6 Part-7 Part-8 Part-9 Part-10 Part-11 Part-12 Part-13