A GUSSET is a triangular piece of material set into a garment to strengthen an opening. (Figs. 22 and 23.) Fold diagonally a piece of material two and one-quarter inches square and cut it on the fold. Take one of the triangles and fold it down a quarter of an inch all around, folding theFashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 12.jpg

straight edges first. Cut away the projecting

points at the sides. Hold the wrong side toward you, with the right angle down and fold so that the point at the bottom will meet the fold at the bias edge.

Make a narrow hem all around the opening. Pin the corner of the gusset to the end of the opening, right side to right side. (Fig. 22.) Beginning at the center, overhand to the hem as far as the crease in the gusset. Fold the gusset over at the crease and pin at the center and each corner, taking care that the warp and woof threads run parallel with those of the garment. Baste and hem all around. (Fig. 23.) The lower edge of the gusset will have to be stretched to fit the opening.

TUCKS should be marked with a measure so that they will be of even width.Fashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 14.jpg

Cut the gage from a piece of cardboard, and from the end measure down the width of first tuck, making a slash and a bias cut to meet the slash. (Fig. 24.) Make a second

cut as shown in Fig. 24, allowing for width of space and second tuck.

It is quicker and more accurate to make a gage of this sort in measuring short spaces, such as hems, tucks and the spaces between them, than to use the tape measure, as sometimes the eye becomes confused at the small marks on the tape, and mistakes are made that will prove quite Fashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 15.jpg

serious.

FOR GATHERINGS, make a row of

small running stitches. The stitches may be

the same length as the spaces, or the spaces

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