If the insertion is narrow, the material is cut through the center (Fig. 36); but if the insertion is wide, the material is cut away from underneath, simply allowing a seam on each side. The edge is turned in a narrow hem covering the line of the basting. Stitch the insertion close to the edges from the right side, and at the same time catching through the material hemmed down.

Insertion above a Facing is first basted in position, and the upper edge is finished as shown in Fig. 37. The facing is generally used when the outline of the lower edge is curved or pointed so that it cannot be turned up in a straight hem.Fashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 27.jpg

The facing is cut to fit the outline of the lower edge and applied as a false hem, as shown in Fig. 37. When edging is used, it is basted to the bottom before the facing is added and ail stitched in a seam together. Turn under the facing at the line of sewing,

baste in position and stitch insertion from

the right side.

TO INSERT RUFFLES IN A HEM turn the hem toward the right side of the gar* ment and crease the fold hard. Divide both ruffle and hem in quarters and mark each division with colored thread. Insert the edge of the ruffle in the hem close to Fashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 28.jpg

the fold (Fig. 38) with the right side of the

ruffle to the right side of the garment and the corresponding marks together. Baste and stitch one-quarter of an inch from the fold. Turn the hem back to the wrong side of the garment, fold the second turning, baste and hem. (Fig. 39.)


RUFFLE, divide both ruffle and garmentFashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 29.jpg

in quarters and mark with pins or colored thread. Gather the ruffle and baste it to the garment. Turn the raw edges up on the garment and cover with a narrow bias band which can be bought by the piece with the edges turned ready for use. (Fig. 40.) This finish may be used on either the right or wrong side of the garment. Frequently mis finish is used on berthas or scalloped edges that are not lined or faced.


Fashion Drawing Sections

Part-1 Part-2 Part-3 Part-4 Part-5 Part-6 Part-7 Part-8 Part-9 Part-10 Part-11 Part-12 Part-13