back stitching. (Fig. 5.)

THE BACKSTITCH is made by taking up a short stitch back on the upper side and a longer one forward on the underside of the material, bringing the needle out a space in advance. Insert the needle to meet the last stitch, passing it under the material and out again a space in advance of the last stitch taken. (Fig. 6.) Fasten by making two or three stitches over the one last made. The backstitch is used on seams requiring strength and firmness.

THE HALF-BACKSTITCH is made in the same manner as the backstitch, except that it is taken halfway back instead of all the way, leaving a small space between each stitch on the right Fashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 3.jpg

side. (Fig. 7.)

THE COMBINATION STITCH consists of one backstitch and two or more small running stitches. It is fastened like the backstitch. Figure 8 shows a combination stitch with one backstitch and two running stitches. It is used on seams requiring less strength than the backstitch.

OVERCASTING is a slanting stitch used to keep raw edges from raveling. (Fig. 9.) In taking the stitch the needle should always point toward the left shoulder. Hold the material loosely in the left hand. Do not use a knot, but turn the end of the thread to the left and take the first two stitches over it. Make the stitches about one-eighth of an inch apart and one-eighth of an inch deep.

Keep the spaces between the stitches even and slant all the stitches in the same direction. Before overcasting, be sure that the edges are trimmed off evenly. In overcasting a bias seam, begin at the broad part of the piece and work toward the narrow part, to prevent its raveling while you are working on it.

OVERHANDING, top, or over sewing, as it is sometimes called, is used to join folded edges or selvages. (Fig. 10.) Baste the pieces with the folds or selvages exactly even and sew with closeFashion Design Drawing - Sewing Stitches 4.jpg

stitches over and over the edges, taking up as few threads as possible, so that when finished the seam will be smooth and flat and not form an awkward ridge or cord on the wrong side of the garment.

CATCH-STITCH, sometimes called cat stitch, is a cross stitch used to hold down seam edges. It is the preferred finish for the seams of flannel garments, for it does away with the clumsiness of a French or felled seam, takes the place of overcasting and prevents raveling.

Place the edges together and run a seam, taking an occasional backstitch. Trim off one edge close to the line of sewing and press the other edge flatly over it, holding the work as shown in Fig. 11.

Make a knot and insert the needle under the edge at the lower left corner, cross the edge and take a small stitch a few threads to the right. Cross back again and insert the needle, taking a similar stitch through all the thicknesses of the material.

Always point the needle to the left and make the cross stitches encase the raw edges. The stitch is done from left to right. If preferred, these seams may be pressed open and catch-stitched, working the stitches over the raw edge at each side of the seam, thus holding both down as shown in Fig. 12.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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