Fashion Design Drawing

Tuck Shirrings should be made on the bias of the material. Baste the tucks in first, and then shirr along the line of bastings through both thicknesses of the material. Fig. 94 shows the tuck shirrings

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drawn up to fit over the shoulder. The length of the shirring thread determines the curve.

Scallops or Snail Shirrings are meant to be used as a band trimming. Make a narrow fold of the material, and run the shirring thread zigzag across from edge to edge. (Fig. 95.) As the work progresses, draw up the thread, when the fold will acquire a scallop edge on both sides. If a wider fold is used, two threads may be run in close together. This will produce a more even trimming and one that will be less perishable.

Cord Shirring (Fig. 96) is made much like the tuck shirring. Tiny tucks are basted in with a cord enclosed from the

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under side. (See Fig. 96, page 28.) Run in the shirring thread along the basting of the corded tuck, and when the entire number of threads have been run in, draw up the fulness.

SMOCKING (illustrated on two pages following) is a style of trimming particularly suited to children's dresses. It may be used in a pattern, forming yokes, etc. As a trimming it is sufficiently ornamental to make the addition of lace or other decoration quite unnecessary, and as an inexpensive trimming it can not be equaled. Delicate fabrics of cotton, wool or silk are best suited for this work, which is clumsy in too heavy materials.

To Prepare the Material for Smocking, spread it out on a table. With a transfer pattern mark the straight lines of dots spaced an even distance apart. (Fig. 97.) The rows of dots for the smocking are so evenly arranged that they form perfect squares. (Fig. 97.) Keep the lines of dots absolutely straight on the grain of the goods. When marking material for smocking by

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