In Fancy Smocking the material must, of course, be marked with dots following
the pattern decided upon. The needle is first run through each dot as for a gathering,
drawing the material up in even folds (Fig. 99), similar to the method of making French gathers. The Outline Stitch, as used in Fig. 100 is worked from left to right along the line of the gathering thread. The stitch is caught through from the under side of each small
material is held in the left hand, and brought up and over the edge of the first fold
to the second one. A variety of arrangements can be used effectively in this way. The Cable Stitch, used single and double, is
illustrated in Fig. 101. Start the thread as for
the outline stitch, taking a stitch from left to
right through a fold from the under or left side;
then through the next fold, from right to left,
and repeat. The second row is begun with the
right-to-left stitch, thus producing a V-shaped
arrangement of the fold.