For fagoting, the design of the work should first be traced on a piece of stiff paper. Or, as in the case of a yoke or collar where a fitted shaping is required, a fitted pattern should be cut of stiff paper, and the ribbon, braid or folds of the material basted evenly in position, following all the curves. When the fagoting is to be applied to the garment in fancy design, and the material underneath the stitches cut away afterward, the entire piece of work should be smoothly basted over paper, and the line of spacing which represents the fagot-stitching outlined with chalk or tracing cotton.

The Simple Fagot-Stitch is done by crossing first from left to right, and recross-ing from side to side between the folds of the material, taking a small stitch in the edge. The needle in crossing each time passes under the thread of the preceding stitch, thus giving the threads a slight twist at the edge of the material. (Fig. 89.) ' Simple Beading Stitches are illustrated in Fig. 90 on the following page. To make the upper design, a buttonholed bar, take Fashion Design Drawing - Practical And Ornamental Stitches 15.jpg

a stitch directly across the space between the two folds and work the buttonhole stitch over the thread back to the starting-point. Then stick the needle into the edge of the fold near the hole of the first stitch, to keep the bar from twisting, and on the under side pass on to position for the next bar.

In the lower design the thread is carried across as in the other case, and, returning, one

loose buttonhole stitch is made over the thread. Over this same loop, run two closer

buttonhole stitches. Then make a second loose buttonhole stitch over the first thread,

and again, as before, the two close buttonhole stitches over this loop. Catch the needle

into the edge of the fold, and pass on to the next stitch. The link bar is not so difficult to make as it appears, and really can be done more quickly than the plain buttonhole bar.

More Elaborate Beading Stitches are shown in Fig. 91. The upper design is a combination of the link bar (described in the preceding paragraph) run diagonally across the open space, and a simple twisted stitch run straight across from the apex of each of the triangles thus made. To make the second design from the top in Fig. 91, bring the thread up from one edge of the fold over to the opposite edge, take a stitch from the under side and draw the thread taut. Then insert the needle three-eighths of an inch Fashion Design Drawing - Practical And Ornamental Stitches 16.jpg

from that point, allowing the thread to form a

tiny loop. Insert the needle again directly opposite the last hole, and from this point make

five buttonhole stitches in the loop. Now catch

up the edge of the fold just where the first plain

Fashion Drawing Sections

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