an inch below this point, and continue as before. To make the buttonhole cross-bar stitch

illustrated in the fourth design of Fig. 91, first

make a buttonholed bar as described in the paragraph on simple beading stitches, but do not

draw it tight; rather let it curve a trifle. Then

proceed as if for the next bar, but when crossing

catch into the preceding bar at the center buttonhole stitch, and then continue to the opposite

edge. Make an even number of buttonholeFashion Design Drawing - Practical And Ornamental Stitches 17.jpg

stitches on each side on this thread. Allow a small space between the cross-bars.

SHIRRING is made of successive rows of gatherings. It is used as a trimming, There are several different kinds of shirring, the use of which must be determined somewhat by the character of the material and the style of garment. Before beginning, it is best to mark the sewing lines with a colored thread, to be sure to get the rows even. This thread can be drawn out when the shirring is finished.

A Simple Shirring is shown in Fig. 92 on the next page. The top edge is turned in and the first row shirred in close to the edge. The thread should be amply strong, with a good big knot at the end; for if the thread is weak and breaks, or the knot pulls through, the shirring will progress slowly, and the material will suffer unnecessarily in the working.

Shirring can also be done very successfully on the machine, by using the gathering attachment. In that case it is especially necessary to mark the sewing lines before beginning, as the machine does the work so rapidly that one is more apt to get an irregular line.

Gaging or French Gathers is a style of shirring generally applied at the back of skirts, etc., where a quantity of material must be adjusted to a comparatively small space. (Fig. 93.) The stitches in this case are made evenly: long ones on the right side and short ones on the under side of the material. Each successive row of gathers has its long and short stitches parallel, respectively, with those of the preceding row. The threads are all drawn up evenly, and fastened at the ends.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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