and take a short, slanting stitch toward the right, drawing the needle out while the thread is held down smoothly by the left thumb. Then hold down the thread on the center line and take a stitch of equal length on the right side, and draw it out as before.Fashion Design Drawing - Practical And Ornamental Stitches 10.jpg

For the double combination, take two stitches to the left, and two to the right each time before crossing the center line; and for the triple combination, three stitches. The beauty of feather-stitching depends on its evenness. Material may be marked for feather-stitching by a transfer pattern. Figs. 83 and 84 show ornamental designs.Fashion Design Drawing - Practical And Ornamental Stitches 11.jpg

THE BLANKET-STITCH is used to protect the edges of heavy woolen materials, and prevent them from fraying. In working, do not use a knot, but secure the thread by one or two running stitches toward the edge. Then, holding the thread under the left

thumb, insert the needle to the depth required and bring it up from under the edge, allowing the thread to lie beneath the needle, forming an edge. (Fig. 85.) This stitch may be worked into various ornamental designs if intended for decorative Fashion Design Drawing - Practical And Ornamental Stitches 12.jpg

purposes. (Fig. 86.)

FOR EMBROIDERED SCALLOPS the material may be marked with a stamping pattern, which can be had in various sizes for various purposes handkerchiefs, towels, sheets, table linen, etc. This marking should be half an inch from the edge of the material. The

work is very simple and easy, even for an inexperienced needlewoman. Directly on the line run a row of chain-stitching which serves as a padding for the scallops. (Fig. 87.) The buttonholing is worked closely with the needle inserted just above the line of running stitches and enclosing the line of chain-stitches. Use silk Fashion Design Drawing - Practical And Ornamental Stitches 13.jpg

or cotton, whichever is best suited to the material. The outer edge of the material is cut away close to the embroidered scallops after the stitching has been finished.

FRENCH KNOTS, which are used in embroidery for the centers of flowers, etc., are made as illustrated in Fig. 88. After bringing the thread up through the material, take an ordinary back-stitch. Wind the thread or silk twice around the needle, draw it through, holding the coils down with the left thumb. Then insert the needle over the edge of the coils, in the same hole, thus making the knot secure. Do not cut the thread on the under side, but pass on to the next knot.

THE FAGOT-STITCH is a style of hand-made trimming that is always popular and attractive. (Fig. 89.) The simple beading stitch or any of theFashion Design Drawing - Practical And Ornamental Stitches 14.jpg

more elaborate stitches shown in the illustrations, which are very effective for trimming dainty lingerie, may also be used as a beading through which to run narrow ribbon.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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