The collar is cut from the cloth, and a canvas interlining for it is cut a seam's width smaller at all edges than the collar itself. The space from the perforations that mark the turning line of the collar to the neck edge should be stitched with several rows of machine stitching. The remainder of the collar is to be filled with padding stitches, as shown in Fig. 305. The cloth edges of the collar are turned over the canvas and catch-stitched to it. The collar is then hemmed by hand to the outside of the jacket, the end of the collar and the turned-over corner at the top of the jacket fronts forming a notch collar. The canvas should be trimmed away a seam's width from this corner and down

the front of the jacket. Cut a facing for the collar and a front facing like the front, extending back an inch beyond the turned-over corner at the top.

Lay the front facing face down on the outside of the jacket fronts and stitch a seam around the corner and down the front of the jacket; turn it over and baste near the edge. Baste the collar-facing to the collar, turn under the edges and slip-stitch to the collar and to the front facing where it joins it at the top. Stitch one or two rows around the edge of the collar and down the fronts. Turn up the bottom of the jacket according to the pattern directions.

Cut the back lining like the cloth back, but allow a half-inch plait down the center of the lining. Cut the lining of the front and side pieces in one, laying a dart-like plait from the shoulders, running out to nothing about five inches down. Full directions for lining a coat will be found on pages 123 and 124.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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