A SINGLS-BREASTED COAT PATTERN allows a lap which is ample for the buttonholes on each front edge beyond the perforations that mark the center of the front. It may be finished with visible buttons and buttonholes or with a fly which conceals the fastenings. (Fig. 308.)

For a Fly Facing, leave the facing of the right side of the front separate from the coat below the lapel, as it will form the fly for the invisible buttonholes. Turn the

edge of the cloth under on this right side. From the crease of the turned-over lapel to the bottom of the coat stitch on the upper or finished side of the coat one or more rows of stitching as a finish about a quarter of an inch from the edge. Then face this side with a piece of the silk lining. (Fig. 308, page 121.)

The cloth facing for the right side must itself be faced upon the side toward the coat with a piece of the same lining (Fig. 308), and should be stitched a quarter inch in from the front edge Baste the cloth underfacing to the inside of the right-hand side of the coat, and at the center line stitch with one row of stitching through both coat and facing to hold them firmly together. Buttonholes are then worked in the facing at equal distances apart. The front edge of the facing should be tacked to the coat midway between the buttonholes. Now continue the row of stitching at the edge from the place where it began at the top of the right side around the turned-over lapels, around the collar and down the left side.

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COLLAR FACINGS of velvet are sometimes used, but instead of being applied directly over the canvas the edges of the velvet are turned under and catch-stitched to the cloth collar. If a velvet collar facing is used instead of one of the same cloth, it should be made of a seamless bias strip of velvet. Do not stitch the edges of the collar, but only the cloth turned-over lapels. One-eighth of a yard of velvet cut on the bias is usually enough for a collar facing. All pressing and shaping of the collar must be done before putting on the velvet facing.

The shawl-collar facing is sometimes cut in one with the front facing. The collar proper is cut and joined as just described stitched to the body of the coat and pressed. The two facing sections are joined at the back, and the seam pressed open. The facing is pinned in position with wrong sides together. The outer edge of the facing is turned in even with the fold edge of the coat. Baste the free edges of the facing in place, being careful to allow sufficient ease for the roll. The edges are basted and stitched. Turn up the bottom edge of the coat over a narrow strip of bias cambric, and catch the coat edge to it. (Fig. 302, page 119.)

If Padding Is Needed, a few layers of sheet wadding decreasing toward the edges may be basted around the armhole from the front of the shoulder to the back, deepening under the arm, and made thick or thin as the figure may require. (Figs. 309 and 310.) If you wish to make the shoulders look more square, place a triangular piece of wadding on the shoulder with the point at about the middle of the shoulder seam and the wider part at the armhole, making the wadding thick enough to give the required squareness to the shoulders. If the shoulders are uneven, fit the upper one and pad the lower one with a triangular piece of wadding. (Fig. 309.)

Baste the Seams of the Sleeves and try them on. If they need any alteration in size around the arm, make it at the seam marked by outlet perforations. A bias strip of canvas, or whatever is used in the fronts, three inches deep should be basted into the wrist just above the turning line of the hem part, and the cloth turned over and catch-stitched to it. (Fig. 311.)

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If a vent or opening is provided at the outer seam of the sleeve, the extension on the upper part is turned under for a hem; and the lower part, neatly faced with the lining, forms an underlap. This opening may be closed by buttons used as a decoration or by buttons and buttonholes. Finish the edge with one or two rows of machine-stitching to match the stitching on the edges of the coat. If stitching at cuff depth is desired, it must be made before closing the outside seam.

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Cut a piece of cambric in the same outline as the top of the sleeve and about three inches deep, and baste it in position to the inside of the sleeve. (Fig. 311.) Gage the top of the sleeve with two rows of gatherings, as shown in Fig. 312. This is done by taking up a short stitch on the upper side and a longer stitch on the under side. All the stitches of the second row should be directly underneath those of the first row. Baste the sleeves into the armholes, try the coat on to see if the sleeve sets right, and then stitch it. In some sleeves the fulness at the top is taken out by small darts. These are marked with tailor's tacks, as directed on the pattern, stitched, cut and pressed open. Often, if the fulness is slight, it can 'be shrunken out entirely. It is first gathered with one row of very fine gatherings and then placed over the small end of a tailor's padded cushion. (Illustrated on page 61.) A damp cloth is laid over the sleeves and they are pressed with a hot iron until dry. (Figs. 314 and 315.)

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