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When the garment is an Eton or any other short jacket, the interlining in the front is cut to the waistline and to the extreme front edge, whether the jacket is single or double breasted.

Baste a piece of canvas or other interlining the shape of the neck and shoulders of the back, and about two inches deep, across the neck at the back, and similar pieces around the armholes of the back and underarm, to meet the interlining of the fronts as shown in Fig. 303. This stays the coat and prevents the breaking around the armhole. The side seams, the vents at the back and the bottom of the coat are reenforced with cambric. (Fig. 303.) Stitch all the seams of the coat. If they are to be finished with stitching or lapped seams, press them before completing the finish. (Chapter XIX.)

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FOR THE STRICTLY TAILORED COLLAR cut an interlining of tailor's canvas. Use the collar pattern as a guide, but cut the canvas three-eighths of an inch smaller at all edges than the pattern. The canvas should be shrunken before it is used. The "stand" of the collar the part next the neck that stands up when the coat is worn is marked by perforations. It is a crescent-shaped section which should be covered with parallel rows of machine stitching about a quarter of an inch apart. (Fig. 306.)

The canvas and cloth in the turnover part of the collar, and in the lapel or revers on

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the front, must be held firmly by many small stitches called "padding stitches." These

stitches are about half an inch long on the canvas side and just barely caught through

on the right side. Hold the collar or lapel firmly over the hand, the canvas side

uppermost, and, in stitching, roll and shape the section in the direction in which it is

to lie. (Fig. 305.) The stitch should be started at the line of the fold of the lapel or

collar and worked in successive rows to the edge. The edges should be turned under,

Fashion Drawing Sections

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