Fashion Design Drawing

point, even when unbuttoned. If the coat is inclined

to flare away at the front line, pin one or two small

dart-like tucks about one-quarter of an inch wide at

the coat's edge and running out to nothing about two

inches inside the edge, to shape in the edge and take

out the stretched appearance. Mark these tucks with

chalk, remove the pins and slash in the canvas at each

chalk mark. Lap the canvas the same space that the tucks were made, cut away one edge to meet the other, lay a piece of cambric over the slash and sew the cambric to hold it to shape. The cloth will still have the fulness that has been taken out of the canvas, and must be gathered on a thread, dampened and shrunk out with the iron.

Fashion Design Drawing - Coats Jackets 6.jpg

Narrow linen tape, well shrunken, should be sewed to the canvas toward the inside of the coat at the crease of the lapel, drawing it taut to prevent stretching. (Fig . 302.) The edges of the lapel and the front coat edges should also be taped, drawing the tape snug at these edges to give them a good shape. Press the fronts carefully.

An additional Interlining, if required for warmth, should be made of outing flannel or the regular silk-and-wool interlining that comes for the purpose. Cut it with the pattern of the coat as a guide, letting it extend an inch or two below the waistline. (Figs. 309 and 310, on page 122.) Slash the interlining at intervals along the bottom so that it will not bind the coat. Do not put the interlining together with ordinary seams, but tack it inside the coat, letting one seam edge of the interlining overlap the one next to it.

From the cloth, cut facings for the collar and fronts. The front facings must be cut to the shape of the front after the edges have been altered and taped. Lay the cloth on the fronts and over the lapel corners; pin it carefully in place, holding the front and lapel in to their proper shape; then cut it to the required width. It need extend only about three inches inside of the line that marks the center of the front. The collar facing, if of cloth, must be cut on the width or crosswise of the material and must not have a seam in the center of the back.

Fit the collar facing to the canvas collar and join it to the front facings, matching the notches on the collar and the front facings. Press the seams open and baste to the canvas collar and to the front of the coat, turning in the edges of both coat and facing. This finish is for visible closing, when the buttonholes are to be worked through both the outside and the cloth facing.