Pin on the side portion, keeping the same grain of the material. Fold back the material along the line of the sewing, and cut it away, allowing seams. Turn under the seam, baste and hem it to the back portion. The next portion is cut out in the same manner, the seams creased and hemmed. Care must be taken to keep the grain of the lining the same as that of the garment, and also to baste the lining in very easy so that it will not draw the outer material and cause it to wrinkle.

THE HALF-LINED COAT. Top coats, storm coats, motor coats, etc., should only be lined to about twenty-five or twenty-six inches from the neck. (Fig. 316A.) You need a lining in the upper part to cover the interlining and to make the coat slip on and off easily. There is no real need for a lining in the lower part, and it wears out so quickly, from rubbing against your skirt, that it is really better not to use it.

The Interlining. The interlining is used in all coats, not for the sake of additional warmth, but in order to give the material sufficient body so that it will not break and look poor and flimsy when the coat is on the figure. The best interlinings are soft French canvas, cotton serge or cambric. The interlining should be cut according to the directions given in the "Illustrated Instructions."

After the interlining is cut it is laid on the wrong side of the coat, with the edges and notches of the coat and interlining even. The interlining is then pinned and basted in place.

The Seam Edges. When a coat is lined to the waist only, the seam edges in the lower part of the coat must be finished neatly. Heavy materials like wool velvet and

Fashion Design Drawing - Coats Jackets 14.jpg

army cloth are really self-finished, for they are so closely woven that they will not fray and can be left raw quite satisfactorily.

Tweed, cheviot, mixtures, etc., will fray and must be bound. The seams should be bound with ribbon seam-binding, the color of the coat. Seam-binding comes in different widths and you can get it wide enough for even a heavy coating. Put the seam-binding on by hand with an easy running stitch, sewing it neatly and evenly. (Fig. 252, chapter XIX.) The seam-binding should run up well above the line of the lower edge of the lining.

The Lining. The coat lining should be cut with the coat pattern as a guide, following the directions given in the Illustrated Instructions. The lining must be cut slightly wider than the pattern. A lining must be loose and very easy. If it draws at all, it will wear out almost at once. In a half-lined coat the lining comes only to about twenty-six inches from the neck. Put the lining in according to the directions given in the Illustrated Instructions in the pattern.

AN UNLINED COAT. An Unlined coat needs interlining. The interlining for the front of the coat should be cut and put in according to the pattern instructions. The interlining in the front of the coat should be covered with a facing of the coat material. The part of the interlining left exposed back of the facing should be covered neatly with a lining.

In cloth or linen the raw edges of the interlining and facing of the side fronts should be bound together. In silk they may both be turned under three-eighths of an inch, facing each other, and stitched. In either case, these edges should be left loose from the coat; they should lie against it, but should not be caught or stitched to it.

A yoke-shaped piece of lining material must be used in the back of the coat. It should be six inches deep at the center, and run straight across the shoulders. Turn under its lower edge three-eighths of an inch, and stitch it in a narrow hem. Then baste it to the back of the coat at the shoulders and neck, leaving its lower edge free.

The shoulder edges of the back yoke should be turned under, and then basted and felled carefully over the shoulder edges of the front lining.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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