In silk the coat should be finished with French seams. In a coat of cloth the seams may be pressed open and the edges bound separately with silk seam-binding or they may be bound together, turned to one side, and stitched down flat to the coat. If they are pressed open, they need not be stitched again unless you prefer to stitch them on both sides of the seam. In heavy wash materials the seams can be handled in the same way, using a cotton seam-binding instead of silk. Be sure the binding is shrunken. It should be the same color as the coat. Or, on a linen, cotton rep, etc., you can use the flat stitched seam.

The lower edge of the coat should be turned under according to the instructions on the pattern, weighted with lead weights at the seams, and its raw edge either hemmed or bound.

Fashion Design Drawing - Coats Jackets 15.jpg

A RUSSIAN BLOUSE JACKET is not difficult to make. Follow the same directions for laying the pattern on the material and marking the perforations that are given on page 130. Face the jacket opening, and insert the pocket as directed by the pattern instructions. Baste the body portions together, try on, and stitch. The seams should be pressed open and the edges bound. Or, if lapped seams are preferred, the seams should be cut wider and finished according to the method described in Chapter XIX, "Tailored Seams." Finish the front and lower edges of the jacket according to the pattern directions.

The deep collar on the jacket should be lined with a piece of lining material of the same shade. The collar should be turned under a seam's width at its edge and finished with one or more rows of stitching or braid around it. The lining is also turned under a seam's width, and hemmed to the underside of the collar, covering the stitching. The neck portion of the collar is joined to the neck according to the notches, with the seam toward the outside of the jacket or blouse. The collar lining is then turned under at its neck edge and hemmed to the neck of the blouse, concealing the seam.

Bind the seams of the sleeves in the same manner as the seams of the jacket, and face the wrist with a cuff, according to the directions of the pattern. Baste the sleeves in the armhole, try the coat on, and if the sleeves set properly stitch them in by machine and bind the raw edges.

The coat is fastened with buttons and buttonholes either in a visible or blind closing. If a blind closing is desired, a double strip of lining is cut for the fly and stitched one-fourth inch from the outer edge, and again along the inner edge, through all thicknesses. It is tacked along the outer edge of the coat midway between the buttonholes. If a visible closing is used, the buttonholes should be carefully worked, using the eyelet buttonhole. Directions for working eyelet buttonholes, as well as the correct manner of sewing on the buttons, will be found in Chapter II, "Buttonholes."

A belt either of the material or of leather is slipped through straps of the coat material which are fastened at each under-arm seam. When a cloth belt is used it should be stitched at its edges to correspond with the stitching on the jacket.

There are many variations of the Russian blouse jacket, but the methods of finishing them vary so little from this model that the worker will have no trouble with them whatsoever.

FOR A NORFOLK JACKET, cut the material carefully as directed and mark the perforations for seams, box plaits, pocket opening, etc.

Bring the thread lines marking the box plaits together, baste and stitch. This makes a large tuck, which is flattened to form a box plait by bringing the seam exactly under the center. As each one is flattened it should be basted one-quarter of an inch from each fold edge. Press well. The box plaits at the front must match those of the back on the shoulders.

If the box plait is applied, cut the plait by the pattern. It is better to stitch the plaits separately and slip-stitch them to the jacket. Interline the belt with canvas, and hem a lining to the turned-over cloth. When the jacket is made with a seam running to the shoulder in both the front and back portions, the simulated box plait is applied afterward over these seams, covering them.

Insert a pocket in each side of the jacket in the manner described on page 106, Fig. 273, in the chapter "Pockets." Face the fronts with canvas from the shoulders as shown on page 132. Join the back of the jacket to the side and front pieces, and press the seams open. In the upper corner of the front that is to turn over as a continuation of the collar, the canvas and cloth should be held together with the "padding stitch." In Fig. 323 is shown an inside view of the front with the canvas and pocket in place.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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