Work the Buttonholes, the top one just at the lowest corner of the turned-over lapel, and sew the buttons at the left side to correspond, sewing through coat and canvas, but not through the facing.

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Flat lead weights about the size of a quarter are tacked in the bottom of the coat to weight it properly. They should be covered with the lining satin so that they will not wear through the lining.

THE. LINING is the final step of coat-making; the outside must be entirely finished, the pockets put in, and all the ornamental stitching done before beginning on the Lining. Silk or satin is unquestionably the only satisfactory lining for a coat. One of the several silk substitutes may be used for lining a gown, but only the greatest necessity for economy excuses its use as coat-lining. White satin of a good firm quality is attractive, but satin matching the shade of the cloth is more serviceable. Cut the lining from the same pattern as the cloth, allowing for any alterations which have been made in fitting.

Cut the lining of the fronts to extend to the front facings only, and cut the back pieces each one-half an inch wider than the pattern to allow for a small plait in the center back. Leave good seams, as the lining must be quite easy in width as well as length. (Fig. 316.) If it is tight it will draw the outside of the coat and make wrinkles.

Baste a small plait at the center back to avoid any possibility of tightness. With the back piece of the lining basted in the coat, the two outer edges will be raw. Catch these raw edges flat with a loose basting-stitch to the inside seams of the coat over which they lie. Now take the next piece of the lining and baste it through the center to the corre-

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sponding piece of the coat, then turn under the edge toward the back and baste it down like a hem over the raw edge of the back piece, notching the edges of both seams at the waistline and immediately abovev and below it, so they will fit the curves of the coat.

Repeat this method with each piece of the lining. Turn it up at the bottom, allowing a little of the cloth to show.

After all the edges are turned under, and basted over the preceding pieces and over the raw edges of the facings in front, and over the edges of the collar at the neck, they are neatly felled down to the cloth. (Fig. 316.) Be careful not to catch through the

cloth to the outside. The lining of the sleeves is cut like the outside, and the seams are stitched and pressed open. The lining is slipped inside the sleeve and hemmed down at the hand and on the small opening at the back of the wrist if there is an opening allowed in the sleeve pattern. It is then drawn up in place, and basted through the cloth of the sleeve about five inches from the top. Then draw up the sleeve lining, turn in the raw edge, and baste it to the coat lining all around the armhole and fell it in place. If the sleeves are to be interlined, the interlining should be tacked to the sleeve lining. It is used on the upper part of the sleeve only, and should stop three inches below the upper edge and three inches above the wrist edge. (Fig. 313, on page 123.)

Occasionally one has to line a coat for which there is no pattern. If the coat has had one lining and it is only a matter of replacing it by a fresh one, rip the old lining apart and press each portion open. Fold the new material with the two cut ends together, and, taking one-half of the old lining, lay it carefully on the material so that it will cut to the best advantage. Mark the seams, or, if the lining will crease, turn back the seams and crease the sewing line. The seams may all be stitched save the under-arm and shoulder seams. The extra half-inch plait is basted down the back, and the basting is not removed until the lining is hemmed in. Tack the seams of the lining to those of the coat, with long loose stitches. Fold under the seams of the back at the underarm and the shoulder, and hem them down with small stitches.

If the coat has had no previous lining, place the garment wrong side out over the padded bust form, and fit a piece of silk to the front. The material for the back is creased down the center back and basted in one-half inch to form the plait previously described. Pin the lining straight across the back the entire length of the form. Crease the silk along the line of the seam, and cut, allowing three-eighths-inch seams.

Fashion Drawing Sections

Part-1 Part-2 Part-3 Part-4 Part-5 Part-6 Part-7 Part-8 Part-9