SEPARATE Unlined waists are made from a great variety of materials, sheer batiste, lawn, handkerchief linen, etc., silks of all descriptions and many of the soft woolens. For Trimming a lingerie waist the combination of two kinds of lace, fine and heavy, or of lace and embroidery, is very effective. Fig. 212 shows a waist made of linen, cut from a perfectly plain pattern, closing in the back. The first step in making this waist is to cut the front and back pieces; baste the seams and fit the waist to the figure. Stitch the shoulder seams. Now open the under-arm seams; lay the waist out flat on the table, and baste or pin the insertion in place, following the design illustrated, repeating it at the back.

Draw the pull-thread in the lace where the curve requires a slight gathering to make it lie flat At the corners turn the lace sharply, and miter carefully. (Instructions for making mitered corners are given on page 11.) Then sew the edges of the fine and heavy lace together with an overhand stitch. The free edges of the lace are basted to the material and stitched down by machine as close to the edge as possible.

Fashion Design Drawing - Unlined Waists 1.jpg

Cut out the material from under the lace, leaving a narrow seam's width at each side. This edge may be turned back and stitched Hat by a second row of stitching, leaving a raw edge. Or, it may be overcast closely with the raw edge rolled in to prevent any possible raveling. Fig. 214 on the following page shows a medallion decoration set in in this way. Sometimes, where two finished edges come together, they are lapped and stitched together as illustrated in Fig. 215.

A waist made from a pattern that allows for tucks is shown in Fig. 213. They should be made before the lace is applied. The waist itself is put together like a plain waist.

When all the trimming on the waist has been securely fastened in place, the under-arm 81

seams are again closed, stitched by machine and finished in the usual manner.

The Collar, which is preferably attached to the waist, may be made of alternate rows of the fine and heavy lace. Cut a fitted collar pattern of stiff paper, turning under a seam at the top and bottom. On this paper collar baste the insertion in place, right side down, drawing the pull-thread sufficiently to give it the proper curve. Overhand the edges together and then remove the collar from the paper.

A narrow seam beading is used to join the collar to the waist. Trim the material away from the upper edge of the beading, and overhand this edge carefully to the lower edge of the collar. Baste the lower edge of the beading to the neck edge of the waist and stitch in a French seam.

To keep the collar from becoming crushed,

a suitable number of collar supports should be placed at each side of the center front, as shown in Fig. 216. The supports are placed two and one-half inches from the end on each side, and a third support at each end.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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