Fashion Design Drawing

lap, fol lowing the shape of the point. At the top of the opening the stitching should cross the lap and catch through

the underlap, securely holding the opening in correct position, as shown in Figs. 229 and 230. A Continuous Lap is- often used to finish the slash at the cuff opening. This lap is made by sewing a straight strip of the material continuously along both edges of the slashed opening, the strip of material being the same width all its length. (Fig. 231.) The other side is turned over and hemmed by hand or machine-stitched, to cover the first seam. This lap is shown in Fig. 232. When the lower edge of the sleeve is gathered this lap is turned under at the front or overlapping edge of the opening and extends on the other side to form an underlap.

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Join the long edges of the sleeve in a French seam and gather the bottom. Cut two sections and an interlining of coarse linen or muslin for each cuff. Baste the interlining to the wrong side of one of the cuff sections. Then baste the second cuff section to the first with the right sides facing each other, stitching along the two ends and lower edge. Trim off the seam at the corners and turn the cuff right side out, making sure that the corners are as neat as possible. Baste along the seamed

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edges so that the cuff will be easy to handle in sewing it to the sleeve.

Baste the upper edge of the outside and interlining to the sleeve and overlap, but not to the underlap in a link cuff (Fig. 229), and to the sleeve, overlap and underlap in a lapped cuff. (Fig. 230.) Then stitch, pushing the sleeve fulness well toward the end of the cuff. Turn the seam down and baste. Make a narrow turning on the inside of the cuff and baste in position, covering the seam. Stitch around all the edges of the cuff from the outside. For convenience in handling it is better to turn the sleeve wrong side out before making this stitching.

The notches at the top of the sleeve show where the gathers begin and end and where they are placed on the waist. The fulness should be fairly evenly distributed, but more of it should be pushed to the top of the shoulder than to the front and back. In sewing in the sleeve, hold the sleeve side toward you so that the gathers can be handled easily in basting.

Baste the sleeve to the armhole. If the material is too heavy for a French seam, make the seam toward the inside and cover it with a narrow bias strip of lawn. (Fig. 233.)

The shirt-waist is now ready for the buttonholes. In the box plait they are worked up and down through the center with a bar tack at each end. (Page 13, Fig. 49.) In the neck-band they are worked lengthwise. The buttonhole at the center back is worked one-quarter of an inch above the stitching and has a bar tack at each end. Those at the ends of the band are worked a corresponding distance above the stitching, but with ' a round front end above the center of the box plait. (Page 14, Fig. 50.) The buttonholes in the cuff are cut one-half inch in from the edge and about in the middle of the cuff. They are worked with one round end and one bar tack.

If a detached collar is desired, cut two sections and an interlining by the collar pattern. Stitch together on the outside edges. Turn, and baste the bottom of the collar and its band with the seam toward the wrong side, and then stitch. Hem the outer edge over to the line of stitching. Stitch around the outside of the collar and work buttonholes corresponding to those on the neck-band of the shirt-waist.

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