Fashion Design Drawing

Fashion Design Drawing - Unlined Waists 3.jpg

A SHIRT-WAIST is a type of waist modeled on the style of a man's shirt. Shirt-waists are usually made of linen, madras or flannel. A good pattern for the beginner is a perfectly plain design having slight fulness at the waistline. Though a shirt-waist needs careful fitting, not so much skill is required in making it, and it is quite possible to fit oneself.

Always open the pattern, identify each piece and get a clear idea of the construction by reading the instructions carefully before beginning to cut into your material. This care at the beginning will make the work easier and save mistakes and consequent

waste of material. In cutting out the shirtwaist, mark all notches and perforations.

In Tucked Shirt-Waist Patterns, it often happens that the fronts are too wide to be cut from one width of the goods. In this case it is necessary to piece the material. Take care that the seam comes where it will not show. In Fig. 217 the right front of a shirt-waist is shown pieced in this way. The method of piecing is easily understood.

The pattern should be laid on the material, and the best place to make the joining considered carefully. It will depend on the width of the goods and the style of the shirt-waist. In some cases it may be made at the stitching of the last tuck, but in others this tuck is not stitched to the waist line but terminates at yoke depth; consequently this seam would not be hidden.

In the model illustrated the best place proved to be at the stitching of the first turnback tuck on the right front. According to the pattern instructions, one inch back of the fold edge of the tuck is the stitching line,, as the tucks are one inch wide. Mark

Fashion Design Drawing - Unlined Waists 5.jpg

the stitching line with chalk, allow three-eighths of an inch beyond it toward the front edge for a seam, and cut off the rest of the material.

A piece wide enough to complete the front must be joined at the stitching line, and when the tuck is made, both raw edges of this seam should be turned to one side and included in the tuck so that the seam is completely hidden on both the outside and inside of the waist. A piece sufficiently wide to enlarge the front breadth is sometimes left from the width from which the back is cut. The left front of the waist is turned under for a hem, as directed in the pattern instructions, and stitched.

The Gibson Tuck in a waist necessitates joining the shoulder seam first before basting in the tuck. This leaves the tuck free across the shoulder seam (Fig. 218), and in basting in the sleeves the tucks . can simply be turned toward the neck out of the way as illustrated.

Fashion Design Drawing - Unlined Waists 6.jpg