Fashion Design Drawing

Be careful not to draw the line of the seam joining the front and back out of place. The material, which is slightly bias under the arm, should be drawn smoothly toward the front as far as it will reach, and pinned at the waistline. The tucks may then be lapped over each other unless the fulness is gathered or laid in overlapping plaits and the waist drawn down or bloused, as preferred.

The tape should be pinned carefully, following the waistline. When the waist is taken off, baste the tape in place. Then take either a strong twill tape or a narrow strip of the material with the ends turned in, and baste to the inside of the waist, following the line of the upper edge of the tape on the outside. Then remove the outside tape and stitch the upper edge of the inside tape to the waist, after disposing of the fulness at the back by making two rows of gathers as far apart as the width of the tape. This method is shown in Fig. 227, on the next page.

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Another method of finishing the fronts is to cut across the fronts just above the lower edge of the strip stitched to the inside. (Fig. 225.) The cut must extend only as far as necessary to take out the extra fulness. The uneven upper edge of this piece may be trimmed and turned in and hemmed down to the part from which it was cut, providing sufficient length to hold the waist down. (Fig. 226.) A row of stitching should be placed at the lower edge of the inside band. The band will cover the raw edges of the cut portion at the front. This finish does away with the bulky material below the waistline, which is apt to spoil the set of a close-fitting skirt. The bottom of the waist is finished with a narrow hem.

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The extension below the waist at the sides may have to be slashed to prevent its

drawing over the hips. If preferred, a circular peplum such as is given in a corset cover pattern, may be used. The peplum

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is sewed to the bottom of the waist to hold it down properly. For waists having no fulness at the back, the peplum is used to give the proper spring below the waistline.

Sew buttonholed rings at the back of the waist belt, as shown in Fig. 227. If two are used, each ring should be an inch and one-eighth from the center back. Or, one can be placed at the center of the back with the others two inches apart. Hooks are sewed with the same spacing to the inside of the skirt belt. Do not use hooks any larger than are necessary to fit into the rings. If rings are not procurable, ordinary eyes may be substituted.

For the Slash in the Sleeve sew the underlap piece to the back edge of the slash with the seam toward the right side. Crease

the seam on the lap, turn the lap at the perforations; baste down, entirely covering the joining, and stitch. Join the overlap piece to the front edge of the slash in the same manner. (Fig. 228.) Adjust the overlap so that it will conceal the underlap and baste it in place. Stitch all around the over-

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