Fig. 295. Tying Threads

The plaits should be basted to the skirt again at the line of markings made after the fitting. The bastings should run down as far as they are to be stitched. It would be advisable to rip the basting of the back seam, as the skirt can be more easily handled under the machine if it is opened out flat. Stitch the plaits down through both plait and skirt to the desired depth. In cases where the plaits are not stitched the entire length of the skirt, the thread-ends on the under side must be securely tied, as shown in Fig. 295. Then baste and stitch the back seam, put on the belt, press the plaits in place to the bottom of the skirt, and try it on again to secure the correct length. Finish the hem, placket and belt in the usual way.

When a box-plaited skirt is put on the belt correctly, it will be noted that the space between the plaits over the hips is wider than at the belt because the waist is smaller than the hips. Where seams are provided under the plaits, the superfluous material may be taken out. Where there is no seam, however, the fulness which occurs must be disposed of under the plaits. If this fulness is not too great, the material may be held a trifle easy, or, one might say, puckered or pushed toward the line of stitching. To present a thoroughly well-made appearance, this fulness must be hidden; and on that account the plaits are very convenient.

Notwithstanding the fact that it is possible to dispose of all the surplus material under one plait, it should not be done, since it would throw the other plaits out of position. There must be an equal space between the plaits. Where the figure is out of proportion in any way, either very large around the hips or small at the waist, the quantity of surplus material is increased. While a small amount may be managed as directed, and after

careful pressing be unnoticeable, a larger quantity would be too bulky, and had best be treated differently, When the plaits are laid the full length of the skirt, and the skirt is being fitted, side plaits or darts should be used to adjust the extra material to a small waist. Fig. 296 shows the method of placing the darts. If a dart is used it is sewed in a position that will come well under the plait so that there will be no likelihood of its being seen. Even if folded over, the upper edges of the box plait should not be disturbed, for this would disarrange the size and width on the outside. The material near the stitching is folded over one-eighth or one-quarter of an inch to form a dart-like tuck, and these new lines are joined or folded in such a way that they taper gradually into the line of the original plait just above the full part of the hips, as seen in the illustration. It should then be pressed flat, and the extra fold will not be objectionable. Treat the extra fulness in this manner where it is necessary, and keep the spaces an equal width.

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A Skirt Made with Side Plaits or Kilts is shown in Fig. 297. The manner of preparing the skirt and marking the perforations that indicate the plaits is the same as that already described. At each line of markings that represents the fold of a plait, the plait should be folded with the markings as an edge, and the doubled goods should be basted one-quarter of an inch back of the edge. This will hold all the plaits in the correct line,

no matter what alteration may be necessary in fitting. Many plaited models have one row of stitching placed just back of the fold edge, and through the two thicknesses only, in the same way as the basting just described. This row of stitching answers a double purpose. It is ornamental and at the same time holds the edge of the plait in shape, and is especially desirable for wash goods or a thin woolen material that is likely to twist on a bias edge. The second row of stitching is placed a little distance back of the first and is taken through both plait and skirt. Stitch it to the desired depth and leave the ends of the thread two or three inches long at the end of the stitching, so that they may be drawn through to the wrong side and tied securely. (See Fig. 295 en page 114).

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When a plaited skirt is made of heavy material or is lapped very much at the waist in fitting, it may be made less bulky by cutting away the surplus material after the plaits are stitched.. The under-lapping goods is cut away to within an inch or so of where the stitching finishes. From that point it is cut across the top of the plait. The raw edges left in this way are bound with a bias, strip of lining, that will finish across the top of each plait except where the seams that join the breadths form the inner fold of a plait, when the binding will continue down the raw edges of that seam to the bottom of the skirt. (Fig. 298 on the next page.)

As each figure has some trifling peculiarity careful study should be given the instructions on the pattern and judgment used as to the best means of alteration or adjustment. It must always be remembered, however, that the tucks or plaits must be evenly arranged and that the space between them must be the same, as this is quite an important point in making a plaited skirt.

When a plaited skirt is made of washable material, the laundering is not difficult if one goes about it in the right way. The lower part of the skirt should not be pressed

out fiat, but each plait as it is pressed at the stitched upper portion should be laid in position all the way to the bottom of the skirt, smoothed and arranged with the hand and pressed into position. Afterward the iron may be run under the plait to smooth the part underneath. This is the same method that is employed in pressing a similar skirt made of cloth. In laundering or pressing a skirt the value of shrinking the material before cutting and of observing the "grain" of the weave is realized.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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