Fashion Design Drawing

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A Circular Flounce may be used as a finish at the bottom of the foundation skirt if desired. This may be cut from any good circular pattern. The lower edge is turned up in an inch hem, and the upper edge joined to the skirt in a French seam. The flounce may be trimmed with tiny ruchings or ruffles, as may be preferred.

A Dust Ruffle is sometimes sewed on the inside of an outside skirt when it is desired to give it a graceful flare at the lower edge without making it necessary to wear additional underskirts. The dust ruffle is also used on foundation skirts when one is desired. It is usually four inches wide, pinked at both edges, and sewed to the skirt by hand with invisible stitches. The ruffle is held down at intervals by French tacks. They are made by taking a small stitch in the skirt and one in the ruffle, leaving a half-inch or more of thread between. Pass the needle back and forth once more, putting it into the same place, and then work several loose buttonhole-stitches back over the three strands of the silk thread. (Fig. 283.)

Foundation skirts vary in style and shape according to the prevailing fashions in outside skirts. These instructions are intended, therefore, to be of general use in making either drop skirts, petticoats or foundation skirts for evening dresses, etc.

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THE DRESS SKIRT is, of

course, made and finished according to the material used and the style of pattern chosen. Directions for putting the skirt together will be found in the pattern instructions. If the figure to be fitted is out of proportion in any particular, read Chapter XIV, "The Use of Butterick Patterns, " before cutting out the skirt. The first step is to-lay out the pattern on the material, following, of course, the perforations indicating the right grain of the material, and being careful to keep the nap or figure running the proper direction. (Read Chapter XIII, "Cutting Materials, Sponging, etc.")

Before basting, lay the gores together, with the more bias edge on top (Fig. 284), and smooth the two gores out by running the hand lightly down and across with the weave of the fabric, being careful neither to pull nor stretch the bias edges. Beginning at the top, pin the edges together at intervals, and then baste along the sewing line with small even stitches until well over the hips, where the strain will come in fitting. Below this point the basting stitches may be longer.

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Try on the skirt, and make alterations wherever necessary. Be careful not to fit it too tightly over the hips, or it will tend to make the skirt lose its shape by drawing up and wrinkling when one is sitting. To set properly, the center line of the front of a skirt must stand exactly perpendicular. Draw the skirt up well at the back, and mark the line for the belt with tailor's tacks, allowing three-eighths of an inch for the seam.

Stitch the seams and press. The finish of the seams depends on the weight and texture of the material. (See Chapter XIX, "Tailored Seams.")

The Inside Belt For your inside belt use silk or cotton

belting of the width recommended on the pattern envelope.