If the foundation skirt is to be full length, the plaiting or flounce may be set on above the hem. The skirt in this case must, of course, be tried on and the even length secured all around the lower edge (see Fig. 301B), and the hem or facing finished before the flounce is added.

When the skirt is ready for the flounce, plaiting or ruffle, mark a line parallel to the lower edge of the skirt a distance above it to equal the width of the finished plaiting. Then lay the flounce face down over the skirt, with the raw edge over this line and the hem of the flounce toward the belt of the skirt.

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Baste a narrow seam along the mark, and stitch. Turn the flounce over and stitch again three-eighths of an inch from the turned edge, keeping the plaits even and flat.

If preferred, the flounce may also be hemmed at the top, and stitched to the skirt with a narrow heading.

If the plaited flounce is of chiffon, a dust ruffle of the silk is generally used under it. The lower edge of this ruffle is simply pinked, and

the upper edge is finished with a very narrow hem. The ruffle is stitched on with a narrow heading. (Fig. 278.)

Another good method for giving the graceful flare or fulness at the lower edge of a foundation skirt is by adding several tiny ruffles or ruchings to the plaited flounce or ruffle. These are cut bias, if made of taffeta, and simply pinked at both edges and gathered or plaited through the middle. (Fig. 280.)

A Simple Ruche of chiffon for the edge of a flounce is made by doubling a strip of the chiffon over on the center line with the upper raw edge turned under and the gathering thread run in along this line. (Fig. 279.) After joining as many strips of the chiffon to make the required length, cut the selvages off, as the stiffness will prevent the chiffon from falling into a soft, graceful ruche.

Fashion Design Drawing - Skirts 4.jpg

A Three-Tuck Ruche is used when more fulness is desired than is given by a simple ruche. This is made by cutting the chiffon strips about seven inches wide. After joining the strips as before, hold them in thirds, bringing the two raw edges together three-eighths of an inch from the folds. Run a gathering thread through all the layers of chiffon at one time. (Fig. 281.)

A Puff Ruffle is sometimes used over a silk plaiting or ruffle. This is made of strips of

chiffon double the width of the ruffle desired, plus the two inches required for the heading at the top. Fold the chiffon double, bringing the two raw edges together on a line one inch below the edge that will be the upper edge of the ruffle. Turn under the upper raw edge and run in the gathering thread, using small stitches. Baste and then sew the puff ruffle to the skirt above the silk flounce. (Fig. 282.)

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