The collar facing is trimmed with three rows of linen tape, set its own width apart and stitched on both edges. If you sew the tape on the collar facing after the latter is on the blouse, the stitching will show on the front of your yoke. Across the back of the collar it makes no difference, for the facing is on top, and the stitching underneath. Baste

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the linen tape carefully to the collar facing and stitch it on both edges.

After it has been stitched, the collar facing can be basted in place under the front. A row of stitching as close to the edge as possible should run around the entire outer edge. The inner edge of the collar facing must be turned under three-eighths of an inch. Wherever it is necessary, it must be clipped, or eased, like the edge of the yoke. After the edge is turned under, it is basted to the blouse. Across the back of the neck it is felled to the blouse, covering the seam, but down the fronts it is stitched with two rows of machine stitching, which makes a pretty decoration on the front of the blouse. Another method of attaching a sailor collar is given in Chapter XXII, under "The Russian Blouse Jacket."

The shield is cut in one piece and may be simply hemmed, or, if preferred, lined throughout with lawn or cambric. It is trimmed with an emblem or star.

After both blouse and shield are finished, it is practical to make a few buttonholes along the neck line of the body part, under the collar, sewing buttons in corresponding positions on the shield to prevent it from shifting around out of place. A crow's-foot may be made at the lower end of the neck opening in front.

THE, NECKERCHIEF or TIE worn with the blouse by a sailor of the navy is made of a

perfect square of black silk tied in a square knot, leaving ends from four to six inches long. This square piece is folded diagonally and then rolled up, with the two overlapping corners folded into the material and held together by an elastic, as shown in Fig. 170, while the other corners are tied at the lower end of the collar in a square knot, with a

corner extending from each side. By studying Fig. 171 the method of tying a sailor's knot will be easily understood.

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TO MAKE THE SKIRT, lay the pattern pieces on the material, paying due attention to the perforations indicating the grain of the goods. The skirt length should first be ascertained, and, unless allowance is made for a hem, sufficient length should be added when cutting.

If front openings are desired, and are not provided for in the pattern, both edges of the front gore are underfaced to the depth of a placket opening, with a straight strip of material about one and one-half inches wide. The front edge of each side gore should have an underlap to the same depth, which should be about one inch and a half wide when finished.

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Fashion Drawing Sections

Part-1 Part-2 Part-3 Part-4 Part-5 Part-6 Part-7