further order that the rating badge shall be worn by all petty officers of the starboard watch on the right sleeve, midway between the shoulder and the elbow ; by all petty officers of the port watch the badge is on the left sleeve. This statement eliminates any doubt as to the correct placing of the rating badge, as, in accordance with these instructions, either sleeve is correct. The chevrons show the class of the officer, while the specialty marks indicate his position in the marine service.

In using these emblems on a girl's blouse, it is a pretty fancy to select the specialty marks worn by the father or brother who is enlisted, or even an insignia indicating the trade or professional calling followed by a male member of the wearer's family, such as engineer, electrician, printer, carpenter, plumber, machinist, etc. The emblem may be placed on the shield also, and a five-pointed star should be embroidered on both corners of the collar. Excellent transfer stamping patterns can be purchased for the emblems, stars, etc.

TO MAKE THE BLOUSE, baste the seams with notches matching, and try the blouse on, either by slipping over the head or lapping the fronts, as directed in the pattern instructions. If a yoke-facing is used, the under-arm seams are left open to facilitate the work. The shoulder seams of the blouse are joined with the seams toward the outside ; those of the yoke-facing toward the wrong side. Stitch and press the seams open.

The lower edge of the yoke is turned under a seam's width. If the yoke has a curved lower outline, the turned-under portion at the fullest part of the curves must be slightly eased, while at the sharp points it must be slashed as shown in Fig. 166. Lay the blouse flat on the table, spread out its entire length. Place the yoke on the blouse so that the shoulder seams come exactly together and the yoke lies smoothly on the blouse. Pin the yoke to hold it in place, then baste and stitch it to the blouse.

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Plaits are made in the regulation sleeve by creasing from the perforations at the bottom to the corresponding perforations at cuff depth. These creases are brought over to the position marked by perforations and the plaits are stitched along the fold edge before the seam is closed.

The illustration below shows how the blouse may be laid out on the table for convenience in joining the sleeve. Baste the sleeve to the yoke with the usual three-

eighths-of-an-inch seam and then stitch it. Turn under the armhole of the blouse three-eighths of an inch, baste it over the seam, and fell it down. Make a second stitching on the body of the blouse one-quarter of an inch from the seam. The under-arm and sleeve seams have been left open until now, making the work easier to handle and also making it possible to sew the rating badge on the sleeve properly.

Close the under-arm seams and the sleeve seams as notched, using flat felled seams. A placket is sometimes made in the sleeve at the wrist, which is closed with buttons and buttonholes. The method for making this style of sleeve, with and without a cuff, is given in Chapter X, "Children's Clothes."

A hem is turned at the bottom of the blouse, and, if the pattern instructions direct, an elastic is inserted to hold the blouse in* place.

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front, roll the collar and facing over at the perforations, and roll the fronts back to the single perforations near the front edge. Put your hand under the collar and smooth it outward, so that it does not wrinkle on the collar facing.

Turn the edge of the collar facing under, even with the collar. Baste the collar and the facing together across the bottom and sides, up to the seam joining the collar and blouse. From that point down, take out the pins that hold the collar facing to the blouse.

Fashion Drawing Sections

Part-1 Part-2 Part-3 Part-4 Part-5 Part-6 Part-7