The design of the skirt regulates the position and finish of the placket. It may be at the center or side back, the front or side front.

A Placket-Hole at the Center of art Inverted Plait is shown in Fig. 122. The placket comes under an inverted plait at the center back of the skirt.

The first step in finishing the placket of a skirt of this kind is basting a narrow strip of canvas or cambric along each edge of the opening, with the edge of the canvas three-eighths of an inch from the edge of the opening.

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The skirt edges are then turned back on the canvas and caught to it with small stitches. (Fig. 123.) Stitch the edges of the placket-hole and sew on the hooks and eyes as illustrated. Cover the canvas on the right side with a facing of silk. Sew an underlap of material an inch and a half wide, finished, to the left edge, and bind the raw edge of the lap with binding ribbon. (Fig. 123.)

A Placket-Hole at the Right Side of an Inverted Plait is used on a skirt of heavy cloth that does not require the canvas reenforcement. Join the center-back seam to the top of the skirt and cut through the right-hand crease in the inverted plait to the regular placket depth. Bind both cut edges of the inverted plait with binding ribbon or a binding of thin silk. This method, as you see, allows

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the inverted plait to serve as a placket underlap. The outer left-hand fold of the plait should be stitched through all the thicknesses of the skirt, allowing the stitching to, taper to a point. (Fig. 124.) The stitching on the right-hand side of the skirt leaves the under portion of the inverted plait free. Fig. 124 shows the position of the hooks and eyes and patent fasteners on this placket-hole.

The Placket-Hole at the Center of a Habit Back is practically the same as for the skirt with an inverted plait closed at the center-back seam. Face both edges of opening with canvas or cambric strips placed three-eighths of an inch from the edges which are turned back and catch-stitched to the canvas. (Fig. 123.) Stitch

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the edges of the placket-hole. Sew on the hooks and eyes, taking care that the stitches go no deeper than the canvas, for the sewing must not show through on the outside of the skirt. The same care must be taken in covering the canvas on the right side with silk, and in sewing on the underlap. The latter should be an inch and a half wide, finished. It is slip-stitched to the left hand edge of the placket. Its free edge should be bound with binding ribbon. The other edge should be turned under and hemmed by hand to the canvas. (Fig. 125.)

A Placket-Hole at the Side Back or Front is used quite frequently. So far as the construction goes a skirt can open at any seam. When a skirt does not open at the center back the placket-hole generally comes on a seam at the left side of the back or front. The placket-hole in this case is made exactly as in the habit-back skirt, directions for which are given in the preceding paragraph.

A Placket-Hole Under a Strapped Seam is shown in Fig. 126. The right-hand fold of the strap is stitched flat to the skirt. The left-hand edge of the strap is turned under and stitched to itself, following the same line of stitching that holds the rest of the strap to the skirt. (Fig. 126.)

Fashion Drawing Sections

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