UNDERWEAR PLACKETS are made in the following manner. If there is no seam, cut the opening in the garment the desired length. It should be long enough to slip easily over the head. Cut for a lap a strip of material lengthwise of the goods. It should be twice the length of the placket opening and three and three-quarter inches wide. Fold the ends together and crease through center; open and fold the sides together and crease. Cut out one section to within a small seam of the crease as shown in Fig. 116.

Baste the long straight edge of the lap to both edges of the opening,

making a narrow seam. Run it almost to a point at the lower end of the opening. (Fig. 117.) Make a narrow turning on the three edges of both the narrow and the wide part of the lap. Double the wide part back (Fig. 118), baste the edge over the line of the sewing, and hem. This forms the underlap. Turn the narrow part back on the line of sewing, baste the free edge to the garment to form an under-facing, and hem. The end of the underlap is turned under, basted and stitched across. The finished closing is shown in Fig. 119. This placket has an outside row of stitching. It is usually employed for drawers, petticoats, etc.

Plackets such as are made for Unlined Dresses are si own in Figs. 120 and 121, on the following page. These illustrate the placket used on skirts of Unlined dresses when the outside sewing would be an objection. Use a strip twice the length of the opening and three and three-quarter inches wide, without cutting away the section as in the first method.

The first sewing is made as in the first placket, then the free edge is turned under and hemmed close to the sewing. When this strip or lap is applied above the back seam of a skirt, it is set back an eighth of an inch from the stitching of the seam. One side is extended out to form the underlap, and the other side is turned under on an even line with the stitching of the seam. When the placket is closed, the entire lap is hidden as shown in Fig. 121.

The. Plackets for Cloth Skirts require neat and tailor-like workmanship. Great care must be taken in handling the edges of the

Fashion Design Drawing - Plackets 1.jpg

opening. They are generally bias, and stretch easily. If the upper edge becomes stretched it will bulge when the skirt is on the figure a defect you probably have often noticed on other women. Hooks and eyes or patent fasteners should be placed sufficiently close together to prevent the skirt from gaping. Any stitching that shows through on the outside should be done evenly and with a suitable stitch and tension. Otherwise the placket-hole will have a careless appearance. A placket-hole should be ten or eleven inches deep unless

Fashion Design Drawing - Plackets 4.jpg

the figure is unusually large and full, requiring a still deeper opening.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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