A long fine down the front will give length to a short figure ; if figure is also stout, introduce side panels.

A high waist-band gives length to the limbs (Fig. 6), the side panels continuing low on the hem to aid in this effect.

An abnormally round-backed figure could be concealed by a long line of different colour down the back, starting full on the roundest prominence to prevent the shape from showing. The long line should then drop to the hem, being held in position low down on the hips. This will conceal the exaggerated hollow in the back caused by the rounded shoulders (Fig. 8). A back view of the same is shown at Fig. 7. The constraining band must be very loose, and of contrasting colour, to widen the figure at that point, also to detract the eye from the upper part of the body.

An abnormal breast width could be treated on the same principles, to take the eye from the afflicted point, and by subtle suggestion direct it to a contrasting line (see Fig. 3).

Fashion Design Drawing - Figure Proportion 1.jpg

In this case, the broad plane of the breast has been so divided by the contrasting lines that the eye is doubtful of the breadth, and is carried down the front line to the slightly lesser breadth of contrasting lines on the hip line, to rest upon this as the imaginary true width.

Dress Designing.

When designing for a matron one must give special care and thought to the line and design of the garment to be worn. If a dark colour has been selected a light inset or collar near the face will soften the defects of the skin, natural at this time of life. If long dark sleeves are worn, light cuffs or lace will give a soft appearance to the hands. Should the neck be thin and collar bones show too plainly, a high or veiled effect should be arranged (see Plate 71, Fig. 2).

The same rule will apply to the arms and hands, as however well preserved they may be, the texture of the flesh cannot have retained the smooth and soft radiance of youth. If they are still round and plump in form they may be as lightly veiled, but adjacent colour must soften and conceal the texture of the skin.

When a question of short skirts occurs (should that be a prevailing mode) an illusion of the same can be obtained by a tunic effect, and this without loss of dignity, for age must possess this latter quality to be beautiful.

Should the figure be of too ample proportions, cutting a V to the bodice with corresponding V shape at the hem will suggest height and consequently slimness. Long lines in sleeves and draperies will also give this effect.

Glossy materials should be avoided, such as black velvet or satin, and if worn with white will accentuate the plumpness.

The general rules for stout figures should be adhered to (see Plate 67), and if thin, added charm can be obtained by following the rules for the slim.

Fashion Drawing Sections

Part-1 Part-2 Part-3 Part-4 Part-5 Part-6 Part-7 Part-8