Dress Designing (Plate 66).

Dress designing for the personal needs of a patron abounds in pitfalls, which if foreseen can be avoided. The following notes should prove helpful.

First observe height, breadth, pose, and, in the case of coloured design, complexion and tint of hair. One is confronted at the very start by irregularities of growth in figure. Examples of six forms have been shown on charts. Note the fifth line level with the middle of figure

A : The woman of average height with normal proportions, without irregularities. B : Abnormal height and body too thin. C : Average height but limbs too long. D : Too long in trunk, average height. E : Stout and abnormal bust development. F : Small size figure, but in normal proportions. Each case will require special thought and care so that unsightly peculiarities are not exaggerated and the ideal ones are not hidden.

A designer must act as physician, and, if unable to cure, at least should neutralize any unsightly defects. Careful study of the charts will reveal where special points of true proportion should fall.

Line (Plate 67).

The following " lines " for differently proportioned figures will be found useful.

The normal figure can conform with any line or whim of the moment (see normal outline as Fig. i).

The cross-over line (Fig. 2) has a slimming effect; black, being the receding colour, should predominate over the largest space. The light line across the figure will attract the eye, and, by breaking the width of the body, will reduce the appearance of stoutness.

An alternative is shown at Fig. 3, arranged to break up the breadth across the body. Braiding, embroidery or colour could be employed for this purpose. The height should not be interfered with by the line, as it is helpful to keep the right effect.

If the hips should be large, as in the case of elderly matrons, a low waist-line will slim them. With a tall, thin figure (Plate 66, B), circular ornament around the body of figure will suggest breadth. If extended into the arms it will give even greater breadth (see Fig. 4, and compare with Fig. 2 or 3 to verify the broadening effect on the same figure).

Fashion Drawing Sections

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