Fashion Design Drawing

POCKETS

A PHASE OF DRESSMAKING that is generally regarded as tedious and difficult is the work involved in putting pockets neatly into a garment. The difficulty, however, is one that can easily be overcome by the simple remedy of "knowing how." The various styles of pockets used on tailored and boys' suits which require some technical knowledge will be treated in this chapter.

A PATCH POCKET is, as its name implies, simply a patch sewed on three of its sides to the outside of the garment. Patch pockets vary in size and shape according to the

style of the garment and the position they occupy. The upper edge that is left open may be simply hemmed or faced, and trimmed in any way that the character of the garment may suggest. In all cases the essential feature of a patch pocket is neatness.

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A SLASH POCKET

is one that is made on the inside of the garment and has a slit opening through to the outside. Mark the line for the opening with tailors' tacks. Run a line of bastings in colored thread through the perforations to mark the line still more sharply, letting the bastings show on both sides of the material.

Cut a piece of the suit material for a facing. It should be about three inches wide and an inch longer than the pocket opening. Baste it face down to the right side of the garment so that its center comes exactly over the pocket opening and the facing itself extends half an inch beyond each end of the opening. (Fig. 266.) From the wrong side of the garment run another row of colored bastings along the line for the pocket opening so that the second row will show through on the pocket facing.

From the right side place a row of machine stitching on each side of the pocket line and about an eighth of an

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inch from it. (Fig. 266.) Tie the ends of the threads firmly so that the stitching can not pull out, and then cut through the pocket line with a sharp knife, cutting through both the facing and the garment material. Push the facing through the slit. (Fig. 267.)

Rebaste the facing from the outside, letting it form a head or cording an eighth of an inch deep at the edges of the pocket. It should be stitched on the upper edge of the pocket hole from the right side. The pocket edges should be cross-stitched together to hold them in shape until the rest of the work on the garment is finished. Turn down the upper edge of the pocket facing as close to the stitching as possible, and press it flat to the wrong side of the garment. (Fig. 269.)