Fashion Design Drawing

Cut from strong cotton or light-weight canvas a pocket piece about twelve and a half

inches long and two inches wider than the pocket opening. Shape one end of the pocket like the curved pocket opening and insert it between the lower pocket facing and the garment, close to the opening. (Fig. 268.) Baste it in place from the wrong side, turn the garment portion over to the right side, and stitch through both facing and pocket. This row of stitching should be set close to the pocket opening. Turn under the lower edge of the pocket facing and stitch it to the pocket (Fig. 268), but be careful not to stitch through the garment.

Now turn up the pocket about four and a half inches from the opening and baste it in place with its upper edge toward the top of the garment. From the right side, stitch through the garment and the pocket along the upper edge of the pocket opening. Turn under the edge of the upper part of the facing and hem it to the pocket. The easiest way to do it is from the right side, pushing the pocket and facing through the slit so that you can get at it easily.

The sides of the pocket are closed with a single row of machine stitching about three-eighths of an inch from the edges. (Fig. 269.)

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A Perfectly Straight Opening has a facing of material applied as directed above. (Figs. 266-267.) Two pocket pieces are cut of pocketing or drill, the lower four and a half inches long, the upper piece five inches long. Both pieces should be an inch wider than the opening. They are slipped under the facings, basted and stitched from the right side. Strengthen the ends of the opening with a bar tack.

The raw edges of the facings are turned under and stitched to the pocket pieces. The upper pocket piece is then turned down over the lower and basted and stitched to it around its three open sides. The raw edges may be bound or overcast.

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IN A POCKET WITH AN IN-AND-OUT LAP the latter is finished completely before the pocket is begun. Cut the piece for the lap from the cloth, being careful to have the grain or stripe of the goods match when the lap is laid on the jacket in the position it will have when the pocket is completed. Turn in and baste a seam on three sides. Run two rows of even stitching around the edge from the right side, the first row one-eighth of an inch from the edge. Then add a lining of silk, slip-stitching it on by hand.

Now lay the finished lap face down on the goods, with its raw edge down, and even with the line of bastings that indicate the pocket opening. The rest of the work is the same as for the pocket described above. In this case, however, that section of the facing strip which is supplemented by the lap is cut away. (Fig. 273.)

AN OPEN POCKET is made similar to the one having an in-and-out lap. The lap is made straight or on a slant, not quite so wide as for a loose lap, and is joined to the garment at the lower edge of the slit in an upright position, and is attached to it at each side.

SIDE POCKETS OF TROUSERS are usually made in a seam. Cut a square piece of silesia or stout lining material the size desired, and, doubling it over, notch the edges to indicate the pocket opening. Make corresponding notches in the seam edges of the trousers. Face the back edge of the pocket on both the right and wrong sides with bias facings of the cloth one inch and a quarter wide and long enough to extend from the top of the pocket to an inch below the notch in the opening. (Fig. 275.) Lay the front edge of the pocket edge to edge with the front edge of the trousers on their wrong side and baste it to them. In the same seam baste a bias facing of the cloth to the front of the trousers on the right side. This facing should be the same length and width as the facings on the back edge of the pocket. Stitch the pocket, trousers and facing together in a narrow seam. Turn the facing over onto the pocket and run a row of stitching close to the fold to hold it in place. Turn under the back edge of the facing and stitch it to the pocket. Trim off the lower corners of the pocket (Fig. 275), and crease the edge for a seam toward the inside. The seam of the pocket may then be closed. Baste it first, and close it with one stitching. The back edge of the pocket is caught to the front at the notches with bar stay-tacks. The upper edges are held by the waist band.