In Cutting a dress from any plain material, follow the instructions on the pattern. The concealment of the back seam is usually arranged for under the plait. The edge may be hemmed by hand, tucked or ornamented in any way desired. The placket opening is cut and finished in the center of the back piece.

Some of these patterns are arranged so that the material may be cut with a bias seam under the arm, if it should be desired, which gives the garment a curved lower edge.

THE CLOAK and OUTDOOR GARMENTS are made more or less elaborately according to one's taste and needs. White is generally used and daintiness and simplicity are the most desirable characteristics. In summer, pretty little cloaks are made of pique and cashmere. The lower and front edges may be hemmed by hand or held in place by feather-stitching on the outside, or the hem may be stitched by machine. The same finish is

carried out at the neck and wrist. The buttonholed edge is a suitable finish for pique.

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Even for colder weather cashmere may still be used with a warm interlining. Bedford cord and broadcloth make excellent coats. Wool wadding or a soft flannel are best for the interlining. It should be cut without the seam and hem allowance Instead of making the regular seam, draw the shoulder and under-arm edges together with a loose overhand or ball-stitch, making them lie perfectly flat. The outside of the coat is turned under at the bottom and catch-stitched to the interlining.

The Lining is cut like the outside and seamed in a regular seam, which is afterward pressed open. Place the seams toward the inside and baste the lining to the coat. The lining at the bottom of the coat should be one-half inch shorter than the coat after its lower edge has been turned up. (Fig. 153.)

Place the lining in the sleeves; gather sleeve and lining separately at the top. Stitch the sleeve in the coat leaving the lining loose. (Fig. 154.) Later it is hemmed down over the stitching of the armhole.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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