Headgear Plate 41.

Whatever type of hat, cap or bonnet is to be illustrated, and where the head is intended to go into it, the lower rim of crown must fit the actual shape of the skull, to the extent of the shaded band (Fig. 1, C and F), and due allowance should be made for hair. It must grip the forehead at F and the back of the neck at C ; the hat can then neither blow off nor fall down upon the face.

A second outer shape has been suggested by the dotted fines, with a dented crown and upturned brim. In illustrating the dented hat, care should be taken not to make the dent fall below the actual height of the skull (see Fig. 4 at E).

In Fig. 1, D indicates the position of the flat plane at the side of the head (refer to Plate 20), and this will have an effect on the crown of the hat.

In Fig. 6 a plan of the top of the head reveals the true shape of a well-made hat. B is the back of head, F the front, and D the flat plane of the side. This shape will effect the drawing of a broad-brimmed hat.

If the outer rim should be a complete circle, the back and front surface will be less in width than the sides.

They are in every variety of form. Large flopping brims turn or droop into sweeping graceful lines, as in Fig. 5 in this case a three-quarter view. The example of a drooping front (at Fig. 4) shows the varied nature of its fines, the left side taking an upward tilt, while the right droops down to the face, disclosing a slight view of the upper surface of its brim.

The plainer the hat, the freer the choice of sweeping lines, but, should the crown or top of brim be profusely trimmed, the lines must be so arranged as to expose the trimmed portion. If largely on the side, Fig. 5 would be a suitable arrangement, representing the head looking over the shoulder and leaving a good side space for trimming.

The position of Fig. 4 could also be used, as the droop of the brim on the right side has exposed a clear space suitable for that purpose.

Colour should be shown in tones of light and dark treatment, giving interest and additional charm to the hat.

When the hat is in soft fabrics, such as velvet, brocade, plush, etc., with only a loose-fitting lining inside, the manner of placing on the head will be the same as before, a line being drawn around the skull shape. If the fabric adjustment is not already fixed to the lining, it will be necessary to arrange becoming folds, to one side, high, low or flat, according to the prevailing mode (Fig. 7).

When fashion decreed the hair to be dressed in heavy mounds on top of the head, the hat was then designed to be placed on top of this. To prevent its being blown away it was either attached by long ribbons or elastic under the chin or back or held in position by hat-pins.

Fashion Drawing Sections

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