Fashion Design Drawing

A Hemmed Patch is used unless the hole is so small that it can be neatly darned for mending material that requires frequent laundering, such as muslin underwear, bedding or household linen. If the material is striped or figured, the patch should be cut so that the lines will match. Pin the patch into position on the underside of the piece to be mended Crease a seam all around and baste it down. Now Fashion Design Drawing - Darning Mending 7.jpg

cut out the worn part, allowing a nar

Fashion Design Drawing - Darning Mending 9.jpg

row seam at the edge. Clip the edge a trifle at each corner, turn in the seam, and baste it down. Then with fine stitches sew the patch down all around on both sides of the material. (Figs. 62 and 63.)

An Overhanded Patch is used on material that is seldom washed, and where the raw edge on the wrong side is not objectionable. The sewing in this patch is not so noticeable as in the hemmed patch, for it has but one line of stitches. In cutting the patch be sure to match the stripe or figure. The piece should be large enough to cover the hole well, when it is basted over it with tailors' tacks. (Directions for tailors' tacks are given on page 22.) When the patch has been basted and cut apart, it will be seen that the exact outline of the patch has been marked on both the garment and the patch. The uneven edges are trimmed away leaving a narrow seam. (Figs. 64, 65 and 66, page 20.)

Notch the corners of the hole diagonally to the line of tacks, and trim off the corners of the patch. Turn the seam edges of both hole and patch toward the wrong side on the line of the tacks, and baste together. Then with small overhand stitches sew the patch in securely, being careful during the whole proceeding to keep the warp and woof threads of the material straight at the joining edges. Figs. 65 and 66 show both sides of the patch after it has been well pressed.

Fashion Design Drawing - Darning Mending 10.jpg

MENDING TISSUE, or TAILORS' TISSUE, as it

is sometimes called, is a great convenience in cases of awkward rents or tears where patching would be undesirable. It is a semi-transparent substance, resembling the thin rubber used in dress shields. It melts under a hot iron and acts like a glue, holding the torn fibers together.

A Triangular Tear should be mended immediately, before the edges have had a chance to fray. The torn part of the garment should be laid, wrong side up, over an ironing-board. Push the torn edges together, bringing them as nearly as possible to their original position. Lay a square piece of the mending tissue large enough to completely cover it over the tear and a piece of the cloth over the tissue. Baste the cloth piece in position, but do not let the basting threads run through the mending tissue or

they can not be easily

drawn out. Then run