finished completely, and pressed before

the trimming is added.

Fashion Design Drawing - Tailored Seams 3.jpg

Joined Seams of garments that have the lining cut like the outer pattern and stitched together, are finished by turning in the raw edges of the seams of both cloth and lining toward each other and closing the edge with overhand or running stitches. Where the seam is curved, the edges must be notched every now and then to prevent the garment from pulling at such points.

AN ORDINARY TAILORED SEAM, which makes a good neat finish, is the plain seam pressed with both edges turned to one side, and a row of machine stitching run in neatly

along the one side of the seam from the right side of the garment as shown in Fig. 253. Or, if preferred, a row of stitching may be applied to each side of the seam. (Fig. 254.) In the latter case, however, the seam should be pressed open before running in the stitching.

A Broad Seam is a plain wide seam with four rows of ornamental stitching. (Fig. 255.) This seam is mostly used on tailored garments of heavy materials.

A Cord or Tuck Seam is a plain seam with both edges turned to one side, and a row of stitching run one-fourth of an inch from the seam, through the three thicknesses of the

Fashion Design Drawing - Tailored Seams 4.jpg

goods. This creates a raised or cord-like effect. (Fig. 256.) The undesirable thickness on the under side may be cut away at the inner edge as close to the stitching as possible.

A WELT SEAM is made by first stitching a plain seam with the one edge of the material left very narrow. Then turn back the fold and baste down close along the narrower seam edge. Stitch parallel to the line of bastings, keeping the seam flat. Fig. 257 shows, this seam with the machine stitches ripped out at the top to expose the narrow seam edge underneath.

A Double-Stitched Welt Seam has an additional row of stitching set in one-fourth inch or less from the edge. (Fig. 258.)

An Open-Welt Seam is first basted as for a plain seam. The tuck is then basted down

Fashion Drawing Sections

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