Fashion Design Drawing

gether with the seam toward the outside, which is afterwards covered with narrow beading. The skirt is closed directly in line with the closing of the corset cover. The skirt opening is made the necessary length and finished like the placket for underwear, which is shown in the process of making on page 34.

NIGHTGOWNS may be made of cambric, nainsook, long cloth, dimity or cross-bar materials, and trimmed with lace, embroidery, or a touch of handwork. The parts are joined by French seams and a hem turned up at the bottom.

The Chemise Nightgown slips over the head and may be gathered into a fitted yoke or finished with an insertion or beading. (Fig. 139.) It may also be gathered into a binding of sheer lawn, trimmed in any pretty fashion. The binding should be about three-quarters of an inch wide after it is joined. The ribbon is run through it instead of through a beading. If desired, beading or narrow insertion may be used for attaching this binding to the gown. Beading is inserted between the turned-in edges of the binding and all three edges held together with one row of stitching. The beading is then joined to the garment in a tiny French seam. The ends of the binding are made to meet in front so as to form openings through which the ribbon is passed.

In a High-Neck Gown the opening is cut as directed in the pattern instructions. The edges are usually turned under for hems, the right lapping over the left and machine-stitched across the bottom. Another kind of finish for the neck is a strap, yoke-shaped to fit the neck of the gown smoothly. It gives a simple method of closing, one side entirely covering the other. The strap may be trimmed with feather-stitching or hand embroidery. When the yoke is not lined, the outer edge is turned under in a narrow hem. A buttoned through closing is better for this style than the fly. The neck decoration is usually repeated in the sleeve.

The Sleeves are gathered twice at the top. Baste the seam in the armhole with the seam toward the outside and stitch close to the edge. Now turn the seam and stitch again, having the finished seam at the inside of the garment. Care must be taken that the gathers are evenly distributed between the notches of the pattern, and drawn down straight from the first stitching.