Fashion Design Drawing

ered. The lap at the front of the opening is turned under at the joining, and the one at the back extends out to form an underlap. The facing or yokes are attached in the manner illustrated on page 43. A button and buttonhole is used for fastening the front of the drawers to the back.

If worn with a waist, buttonholes only are needed in the ends of the bands, and at the

center front and center back.

CORSET COVERS have the widest range of design and style among undergarments. They should be carefully planned as to material, trimming and style, for they often serve as a slip under a thin waist.

For a stout, short-waisted figure a pointed neck both back and front will be found more becoming than a round outline. Ruffles extending across the front of the corset cover will give a good figure to a slight person and serve to hold out the blouse. This style of cover usually closes at the back. The pattern is perforated for the position of the ruffles. Corset covers can very easily be made by hand, and they are extremely dainty, pleasant handwork.

Hand-made underclothes are steadily gaining popularity with the general use of French underwear. Its very simplicity expresses refinement and daintiness. Very narrow tucks, insets of lace and motifs of hand embroidery are used as trimming.

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A dainty corset cover may be made of either nainsook or cambric. The under-arm and shoulder seams are put together with veining or stitched with a French or felled seam. If a peplum is used, it is fitted like the yoke of drawers. Gather the corset cover at the waist as directed in the pattern instructions, and sew it to the peplum in a French seam. Or, the seams may be turned from the inside, and a narrow bias-strip basted on and stitched over the seam. This bias seam is hemmed over as a narrow facing. If preferred, the waist may be gathered into a strip of beading and sewed on in a French seam. The bottom edge has a narrow hem.

Finish the neck and armholes with embroidered scallops as shown in Fig. 138. Buttonhole tiny slashes for the ribbon draw-strings. A few sprays of flowers scattered over the front or a monogram in hand embroidery makes a pretty trimming. Medallions may be purchased and applied if the hand embroidery seems too laborious. Valenciennes insertion inset in the fronts, combined with a little embroidery in a fancy design, makes a dainty trimming. Several methods for applying laces, etc., are given in Chapter XV, ''Unlined Waists."

If a plainer corset cover is desired, the top is hemmed and beading and lace overhanded to it as a finish. A very narrow bias facing is basted around the right side of the armhole, stitched, basted over on the wrong side, and stitched again. Care must be taken in basting on the bias strip to give plenty of ease around the curve of the Fashion Design Drawing - Making And Finishing UnderGarments 8.jpg

armhole so that it will not draw when turned over. The lace edge should be sewed on the armhole after it is faced.

COMBINATION GARMENTS dispose of much of the useless material about the hips and waist, are excellent for stout figures, and give a better fit to the one-piece dress.

If the corset cover and skirt are cut in one, the garment is basted and carefully fitted and stitched in French seams. If cut separately, each is fitted and them basted to-