Fashion Design Drawing

Open Drawers are made with the seam running from the front belt to the back, not joined, but hemmed or faced, as the pattern provides. If a facing is applied, stitch it to each leg portion from the waist to the front around past the joining seam, easing the facing on the curve, and continuing it up the back edge to the waist. Turn in the free edge of the facing and hem it to the inside of the garment. The manner of applying the facing is shown in Fig. 134.

In Fig. 135 is shown a pair of drawers that can take the place of a short petticoat, as they are cut in circular shape and fall quite full about the knees. The material is fine nainsook, long-cloth or French cambric. The yoke is circular in shape, and' should be fitted to the figure as shown in Fig. 132 on page 41.

The lower edges of the drawers are turned up in narrow hems and the lace edge is inserted in the manner shown in Fig. 34, page 10. The lace may be fulled very slightly by drawing the strong thread which will be found in the top edge of nearly all laces. This will keep the lace from hooping; at the same time it is not full enough to look like a ruffle. Or, the lace edge may be whipped on to the edge of the hem by hand.

The rows of lace insertion are then applied in even rows. Measure with a notched card as shown in Fig. 24, page 7. Baste close to the edge of insertion. Turn to the wrong side and cut the material to within a narrow seam of the bastings. Turn in a very narrow hem which must come exactly under the edge of lace so that the work may be turned to the right side and the lace stitched on by machine, at the same time sewing in the narrow hem. An illustration of this method is given in Fig. 135.

If the ruffle at the lower edge of the garment is straight, the lace edge and insertion may be applied as illustrated in Figs. 34 and 35, on page 10. There are different ways of fitting the drawers at the waist. (Fig. 136.) If there is fulness at the top of the drawers, gather the top of the drawers according to the instructions given with the pattern, and stroke the gathers. The right side is lapped across the left at the front. The center front of both the yoke-pieces is marked with a colored thread, and the lower edge of one yoke is basted in a seam to the gathered top of the drawers, matching the notches in both, and making the seam toward the outside. The garment may then be tried on, to see if the distribution of the gathers is correct.

The drawers portion may need raising a little into the yoke at either front or back if the figure requires it. After any needed alterations are made, the seam is stitched. The second piece is then placed even with the one joined to the drawers, but toward its wrong side that is, the inner side of the garment and a seam is stitched around the top or waist edge that will hold the two yokes

together. The one on the inside (that has not been seamed to the drawers) is then turned over toward the outside, covering the top of the seam just made. Its lower edge is turned under a seam's width and is basted and afterwards stitched on, on the outside, to cover the seam joining the top of the drawers to the first yoke. This process may be readily understood by examining Fig. 136.

Drawers are sometimes fitted with darts instead of a yoke. In this case the darts are closed with felled seams, and the plaits laid in the back to hold the fulness in place are often stitched down a short distance on each fold edge. The waist edge of the drawers is finished with a bias facing. Fig. 137 illustrates the upper portion of a pair of drawers showing the first row of stitching. Clip the seam at the curves, turn over the facing and stitch at the top and bottom, as shown at the right-hand side of the illustration. The drawstrings or tapes are put in, one on each side, and sewed firmly. Or, the drawers may be fastened by a button and buttonhole. If preferred, the fulness, instead of being laid in a plait, can be gathered by the drawstring. Insert the tape and fasten the ends securely where the gathers begin.

Drawers cut in this way are not at all difficult to fit. There is just one point that needs the same care in these garments as in the skirt, and that is the ad

justment to the figure that has very full abdominal development and is flat at the back. In such a case, if the drawers are cut exactly by the pattern, they will draw from the back to the front. If the waistline of the drawers is raised a little in the back, to counteract this tendency the entire garment will be made shorter. The correct way is to allow an extra inch or two at the top on the fronts in cutting, tapering the allowance away to nothing just over the hip. In patterns for the larger waist measures a moderate allowance is made at the abdomen, but when the development is unusually large, it is better to make a still greater allowance in cutting.

For Closed Drawers, cut the slits at the side like the pattern and finish with a continuous placket. The two parts are seamed together with a flat-fell and the top is gath-

Fashion Drawing Sections

• Aprons And Flannel Petticoats
• Bias Trimmings
• Boys Suits
• Buttonholes
• Care Of The Clothes
• Childrens Clothes
• Coats Jackets
• Cutting Materials Sponging
• Darning Mending
• Efficient Equipment For Dressmaking
• Infants Clothes
• Lined Waists
• Making And Finishing UnderGarments
• Maternity Dresses
• Plackets
• Pockets
• Practical And Ornamental Stitches
• Remodeling
• Sailor Or Naval Suits
• Sewing Stitches
• Skirts
• Tailored Seams
• Unlined Dresses
• Unlined Waists
• Use Of Butterick Patterns

This Section:

• Part-1
• Part-2
• Part-3
• Part-4
• Part-5