Fashion Design Drawing

The Placket is made at the back with a continuous lap three-quarters of an inch wide, finished as shown in the process of making on page 35.

The petticoat may be finished at the top with a narrow bias facing which allows it to drop below the waistline. If fulness is used, it can be gathered or laid in plaits at the back and the bias facing is basted to the right side of the skirt, turned over to the wrong side and stitched down by machine. The method for applying a facing is shown in Fig. 137.

A Yoke which insures a better fit to the outer skirt is often used instead of a facing on underskirts and drawers. The yoke pattern should be bought by the same measurements as the skirt. If the waist and hip measure are disproportionate, order the pattern by the hip measurement nearest your own and alter it at the waistline. The yoke patterns are cut in one piece, either with or without darts.

The yoke may be fitted by the darts if there are any. In case there is none, cut a trial yoke from coarse cambric before cutting out the real garment. Mark the center front with a colored thread and fit the yoke. If the waist is too small, slash the yoke down from the waist wherever necessary and pin a piece of cambric at each slash to hold it to the correct size as shown in Fig. 132. Use this fitted yoke as a pattern from which to cut the real yoke. Do not alter any of the notches in the lower part of the yoke, as the changes at the waistline do not affect the construction of the rest of the

garment.

If the waist measure is smaller than that of the pattern, pin little darts into the cambric yoke to make it fit. This process will repay the slight trouble involved by giving a smooth and comfortably fitted garment. Two pieces should be cut from muslin by the yoke pattern, one to be used as a facing or lining.

If the yoke is not provided in the pattern, measure down from the waist to yoke depth and cut off the top of the skirt, making the cutting three-quarters of an inch above the lower edge of the yoke.

A Silk Petticoat may be finished at the top by a method which dispenses with a placket. (Fig. 133.) The entire upper edge of the skirt is finished with a bias facing. Stitch the facing to the skirt with the seam on the wrong side, turn the facing over and stitch directly on the edge; the remaining edge is turned in and stitched down flat. At the back, where the fulness commences, cut a slit in the skirt at each side. The slits should be worked like buttonholes. Insert a tape or drawstring through one buttonhole and draw it over a short distance beyond the buttonhole on the opposite side. Tack it firmly. A second tape is put through the buttonhole near the last tacking and brought out through the one on the opposite side, where it should be tacked firmly just beyond the buttonhole. (Fig. 133.)

The Hem is turned up at the bottom, or a narrow ruffle is put on as shown in Figs. 38 and 39 on page 11, making the skirt three-quarters of an inch longer than the desired

Fashion Design Drawing - Making And Finishing UnderGarments 1.jpg

length. Gather the ruffle, quarter it, and stroke the gathers. Measure up from the bottom of the skirt the exact depth of ruffle and crease, folding in the right side of skirt. Insert the ruffle and stitch three-eighths of an inch from the crease. Fold the tuck back and make a second stitching along the fold. This uses up the three-quarters of an inch which was added to the length of the skirt.

DRAWERS are finished at the lower edge first. A gathered ruffle of either the plain

material or embroidered edging makes a pretty trimming. It may be added in either of the ways shown on page 11. The depth of the hem, ruffle, etc., must be considered in measuring the length. If a row of insertion is desired at the head of the ruffle, the hem may be omitted and the insertion applied to the edge of the material with a French seam. The ruffling is joined to the insertion also in a French seam. If tucks are to be used as trimming, cut the drawers sufficiently long to allow for them. One-eighth inch or finer tucks in clusters of three or five are effective, either with or without an insertion of lace or embroidery between the clusters. All the edges are joined in felled seams.