Fashion Design Drawing

If a Fancy Sleeve is to be made, the lining must be fitted first and the material draped or arranged later. In basting the lining, place the under piece of the sleeve upon the upper with the notches of the front seam together, and pin in position. Then baste this seam with small running stitches. Pin the back seam through the outlet perforations from the top to the upper notch, and again from the lower notch to the bottom. The extra material of the upper sleeve portion is gathered into the space between the

notches to give room for the elbow. The seam is then basted. The sleeve should always be basted as the pattern directs, and the same width seam will be taken off both upper and under sleeve portion. The outlet seam should be basted on the line of perforations.

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Adjust the sleeve in the proper position, draw it up well on the arm, so that the elbow is in the correct position, and pin the sleeve in the armhole with notches matched, as directed in the pattern instructions. Distribute the fulness fairly evenly. More of it should come on the top of the arm than at the back or front.

In a sleeve which sets correctly after basting, it will be noticed that the front seam, instead of lying perfectly straight when laid flat on the table, will roll somewhat toward the under side of the sleeve from the center of the seam to the wrist, as shown in Fig. 245. This is quite important, as many workers imagine that the sleeve should set perfectly flat the length of this seam.

Drape the material on the sleeve lining, remove the bastings and press the seams flat.

Clip the front seam, then overcast or bind with a narrow silk binding ribbon. If it is desired to have a firm wrist edge an interlining of soft crinoline is placed at the bottom, one to two inches deep. With the sleeve right side out, roll the crinoline until it can be slipped into the wrist. Place the hand inside and move the fingers about until the crinoline fits the sleeve without either drawing or falling in folds; then baste. The rest of the work is done from the wrong side. Turn the sleeve inside out and turn up the bottom three-eighths of an inch. (Fig. 246.) Catch-stitch it to hold it down, then press. Face the wrist with a bias piece of silk, and slip-stitch or hem it at the upper and lower edges. Any trimming

is added and the sleeve fully finished before it is basted in the armhole. After the sleeve has been sewed into the armhole the seam is overcast.

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A BLOUSE - WAIST is generally made without a lining. In some cases, for instance in a silk waist, a lining is desirable to save the silk from wear and strain. It differs from the lining used for a closely fitted tailored or draped waist in that it reaches only to the waistline, has but one dart, and, as the curved fitting at the waist and hips is not required, it contains fewer pieces. Consequently, a simpler method of boning than that of the fitted waist may be employed.

The pieces should be basted together and the lining fitted, any necessary alterations made and the under-arm seams stitched. Usually a hem is allowed for at the closing edges, but even if only a seam is provided, the closing line should be marked.

In fitting, bring the closing line of both fronts together, and pin along the tracing, forming a seam toward the outside. Alterations may be made on this seam, if necessary, in which case a new closing line must be marked. If the closing edge is to be faced instead of hemmed, trim the edge, leaving only a seam's width. Cut a straight piece of the lining material two inches wide, and long enough to cover the length of both the front edges. Place the piece with one edge to the edge of the lining on the outside, ana stitch a seam. Turn the facing over, making the fold come exactly at the seam, and stitch one-eighth of an inch back from the edge.

The casing for the bone in the front edge is made by a second row of stitching, as shown in