Fashion Design Drawing

If the collar is to be of woolen or silk like the gown, it should be lined with a piece of soft, light silk. Catch-stitch the collar supports to the silk, taking care to sew through the silk thoroughly. Turn over all the edges of the collar and catch-stitch to the lining. Slip-stitch the lower edge to the neck of the bodice.

If closed at the left side, the entire collar, except the small portion at the back, is stitched firmly to the neck. The neck of the lining at the left side, which is free, is bound with seam binding. For a waist with a front closing, bind the left side of the neck with seam binding, pin the collar around the right side, with the center of the collar at the front edge of the right front, and the right end of the collar at the center-back seam. Sew the collar to the neck, being careful not to catch the stitches through the outside material. Sew four hooks on the left end of the collar (on the inner side) and one to its lower edge about half-way between the center front and back.

Fashion Design Drawing - Lined Waists 10.jpg

Cut the facing (preferably of silk) the same shape as the collar. Turn in the edges of the facing and hem it to the collar on the left side, and to the neck of the right side of the waist. Work four buttonhole loops at the right of the collar, and one in the left side of the waist at the neck. The collar and facing are shown in Fig. 243. If the collar is made of transparent material, the mousseline de soie shoild be used instead of the silk and the collar may be held up by collar supports.

For a woman having a very short neck, a high boned cellar is an absolute torture. At the same time, some support must be given to the collar or it will look wilted and untidy, and make the neck seem still shorter and stouter. As the ordinary way of placing the supports diagonally at the front does not seem to prevent their poking into the chin, it is a good plan to use two supports about three and one-half inches long, finished. These two support are then crossed. The same method is used if the collar lining is taffeta silk.

IN A FITTED WAIST MADE, WITH A YOKE, the yoke is mounted on the lining before the waist is draped. The yoke line must be marked through the perforations on the pattern to the lining, and then outlined with a colored basting thread as a guide in finishing the lining if it is to be cut from under the yoke. The yoke and collar are cut by the patterns provided for them, and fitted to position on the lining. Usually the yoke is cut in one piece, particularly if it is of lace or embroidery.

If the yoke is in one piece, first cut the yoke of lining material and fit the shoulder seams if necessary. Now place the center front of the yoke lining, if the waist opens at the back, on a lengthwise fold of the yoke material and cut it in one piece. This brings the yoke opening on the bias. If the yoke is of lace, it is better to cut one or two thicknesses of

mousseline de soie to soften the effect. The mousseline is stretched over the waist lining first, and hemmed to the lining three-eighths of an inch below the colored thread marking the yoke line. The lining is then cut away, and the edge turned toward the mousseline at the marked line and hemmed down. Stretch the lace over the mousseline, carefully basting all points around the neck, arm's-eye and the yoke line. The lace is then sewed to the lining at the bottom without turning in the edge.

The Lace Collar is also lined with one or two thicknesses of the mousseline. Measure the correct length and height of the collar and cut one of stiff paper. Mark off the seam with pencil. Also mark where supports are to be sewed.

Cut one or two thicknesses of mousseline like the pattern, and baste to the stiff paper. Procure either the bronzebone, which can be bought in the right length, or the narrow silk-covered featherbone. If featherbone, cut the lengths so that the casing may be slipped back three-eighths of an inch and the bone cut off. Draw the covering over the end and turn it back and fasten it. The featherbone is then catch-stitched to the mousseline.

The edge of the bone should be one-eighth of an inch from the top and botton of the collar. Cover the collar with lace, turn the top down three-eighths of an inch to the wrong side and hem, or turn to the right side and cover with applied trimming. The top edge must be slit to keep it from drawing. The lower edge is turned to the under side and basted to the yoke. It should be tried on and any necessary adjustment made around the neck and at the back.

The collar may be slip-stitched from the right side, or the waist may be turned to the wrong side and the collar backstitched to the yoke, taking care not to take the stitches through to the right side. The support is placed at the right end on the line of marking, the edge is turned back one-quarter of an inch beyond the traced line, and hemmed or faced. Sew four hooks on the overlapping end, and eyes or silk loops along the other end in corresponding positions.

The meeting edge of a lace collar and yoke should be appliqued together. To obtain this effect, the mousseline yoke and collar are first fitted and joined together. The edges of the lace are left free at this point, and, by cutting and weaving together, the pattern appears continuous. In places where the mesh is too thin to disguise the seam, sections of the pattern may be cut from the lace and applied to cover it.