Fashion Design Drawing

THE OUTER WAIST is easily managed if you have a carefully fitted lining for a foundation. In using material of a width that requires piecing, the place of joining must be determined by the design of the waist. The join must come where it will be least noticeable.

This may be the center front, if the waist has much fulness at that point. Or, if there are tucks at the side, extending from shoulder to waist, the seam may be made at the sewing line of one of the tucks.

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The waist is now ready to bo draped, the process being greatly facilitated by the use of the bust form. In the draped waists, whenever they are in style, the outside material usually is not caught in with the lining at any seam except the shoulder seam. However, there are occasions when the material is caught in the underarm seams as well. In these instances the under-arm seams are not stitched with the other seams of the lining, but are left basted until the entire waist is draped. The material for the back of the waist, after it is prepared according to the pattern instructions, should be pinned to the lining straight down the center of the back, drawn well down and across toward the sides. Pin it at the shoulder, the armhole and down the under-arm seam, stretching it down that it may lie smooth and flat, and placing the pins near enough together to hold it well in place. Gather the fulness and draw it toward the center of the back.

The front is then draped on the lining according to the lines of perforations and notches at the neck and shoulder. Very elastic material may require to be stretched or drawn a little more tightly than one of firmer texture, and allowance must be made for this fact in matching the perforations that indicate where the outer material is to be tacked to the lining.

When the front drapery is arranged from the shoulder to the bustline, pin carefully about the armhole, then arrange the drapery below the bust; make the rounded part of the bust that lies at the second part of the lining a central point from which to work the drapery in both directions. Draw the front drapery toward the under-arm seams, turn under the raw edge and fit it in a straight, well-shaped line to cover the raw edge of the back drapery. Pin it in place to be sure the line is good. After the other side has been draped and pinned in the same manner remove the waist from the form and baste by slip-stitching. Stitch the seam by machine and press it open. This method is preferred by most people and looks neater when finished than slip-stitching, although the latter may be done closely and used as the final sewing if preferred.

Fig. 241 shows another method of finishing the seam under the arm. The waist is draped as directed, but after pinning the drapery in a good line, baste this folded edge through the front drapery only. Remove the pins, and place a row of machine stitching close to the edge, using silk the same color as the material. Pin the stitched edge in place again, stitching it down well.

Pin the other side in the same manner, remove the waist from the form and stitch by hand, taking the stitches through the row of machine stitching made in the front por-tion. Try on the waist after draping, because it often happens that boning pushes the

waist up so that it needs taking up a little more on the shoulders. If it is correct, stitch the shoulders. Then press them open and finish like the other seams.

If the material is heavy, or there is any likelihood of the lower edge of the waist being

bulky, the material is not turned under the bottom of the waist, but is sewed securely to the lining just below the waistline, the material cut away below this line, and the raw edge covered with a piece of seam binding laid on flat and sewed on both its edges as shown in Fig. 242. The girdle covers the line of sewing.

Never bind the armhole of a lined waist, as the lining serves as sufficient stay. When a sleeve of elbow length or an even shorter length is used complete directions for making it will be found in the pattern instructions.

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