With the present style of stretching the back of the draped waist, little difficulty is experienced in the making. Having chosen the stride that is most suitable for the center of the back, select also, for the crosswise stripe, a position which will leave the best effect on the figure. For the front, arrange the plaid so that when the waist is closed the center will form a succession of perfect blocks. Other ideas may be considered for the front closing; this is simply a matter of choice, since the lines across the front must match. In any event, the crosswise plaids of the front must be on a line with those of the back, so that when the under-arm seam is joined the crosswise stripe of both will match perfectly. (Fig. 180.)

The chief difficulty in the making of a striped or plaid waist lies in the accurate matching of the stripes. In using a new pattern, cut and fit the lining first. Then if any alterations are necessary they can be re-

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peated in the pattern of the outside waist before cutting the material.

When making a waist of striped material the only place where the stripes must match is at the shoulder seams unless, of course, the stripes in the material run bias or the waist itself is cut on the bias. In the latter case the general principles given in the preceding paragraphs on cutting materials can be followed.

In a plaid waist the vertical lines at the shoulder seams and the crosslines at the under-arm seams must match. (See Fig. 180.) If the waist closes in front, the back should be cut out first. Pin the back to the pattern of the front at the shoulder edge. Mark the stripes with a pencil on the pattern of the front where they intersect the shoulder seams. (Fig. 179.) Lay the pattern of the front on the goods so that the stripes of the material correspond to the stripes marked on the pattern. Then cut out the fronts. In Fig. 179 the seam edge of the pattern is folded under to show the way the stripes should match when the shoulder seam is closed.

IN CUTTING THE SKIRT of plaid, place the chosen line or plaid exactly in the center of the front gore, or, if the skirt is circular, directly down the center of the front. After the front is cut, the

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uncut-material is laid on the table and the cut front placed alongside, near the edge, with the crosswise as well as the lengthwise stripes matching exactly. (Fig. 181.)

Place the pattern of the side gore on the material, matching the front, and if the position is correct, cut; otherwise move the front gore to the next block or plaid on the material. This may necessitate some waste, but there is no alternative. Frequently, in plaid or figured materials, the pattern will have to be moved half a yard or more to a corresponding line or figure

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before the correct position will be found. Cut each gore after the manner directed, and baste and stitch.

Fig. 181 shows a material of plaid, in cutting which a waste was necessary in order to match the plaid. On

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